iiiiiiiiiiife 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



OQQOSbbHSia 



^^'\ 




>* 







"h^ 



^^""^ 




*h\y 






"•fv. 



'^..ili.'. 













'^^^\<^ 








*^°* 







♦* .'ij^^^ 



>o*'\iA:..;% •<* - -* 



^.c'? 



%..y •' 














^0' 



*^«* ^0 



V..^"^ 




k^ .»•• 



' '^ -v^ ♦V 




V^ 











^^^% 











■^••>* .**^^ffii% Vc//Jfe-/*^ 



*^.v 






V»*^^ 



A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 




L>^^^^ 



A SUMMER ACROSS 
THE SEA 



BY 



JAMES H. SNOWDEN, D.D., LL.D. 

Editor of The Presbyterian Banner 
Author of'-'- Scenes and Sayings in the Life of Christ " 



ILLUSTRATED 




New York Chicago Toronto 

Fleming H. Revell Company 

London and Edinburgh 



Copyright, 1908, by 
FLEMING H. REVELL COMPANY 



JLiBKARY of CONGRESSJ 
j I w(.' COBles Received 

I DEC 3 1900 

1 ,rv Copyritiit tritry _ 



New York : i n;8 Fifth Avenue 
Chicago : 80 Wabash Avenue 
Toronto : 25 Richmond St., W. 
London : 2 1 Paternoster Square 
Edinburgh : 100 Princes Street 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. On the Way ii 

II. In Scotland 22 

III. In England 33 

IV. Some London Churches ... 46 
V. In Holland and on the Rhine . 57 

VI. In Germany 68 

VII. In Austria and Italy ... 81 

VIII. Rome 93 

IX. From Pompeii to Geneva . . 105 

X. In France and Belgium . . .118 



XI, Some General Impressions of Europe 130 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



James H. Snowden 

Windsor Castle . 

Westminster Abbey 

Cathedral of Cologne 

Unter den Linden 

St. Mark's Square, Venice 

St. Peter's Cathedral, Rom 

Michelangelo's "Moses" 

The Colosseum, Rome . 

Pompeii .... 

Cathedral of Milan . 

The Jungfrau 

St. Peter's Cathedral, John Calvin's 

Church, Geneva 
Interior of St. Peter's Cathedral, Geneva 
Cathedral of Notre Dame, Paris 
The Palace at Versailles . 

7 



FACING PAGE 

Title 



41 

47 

63 

86 
95 • 

99 

102 

107 
III 
114 

116 
117 
120 
122 



These letters appeared as editorial corre- 
spondence in The Presbyterian Banner, and, in 
accordance with repeated requests, have been 
gathered into this little volume. 

Pittsburg^ Pa., October 20, 1908. 



A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

I 
ON THE WAY 

A SUMMER across the sea was the at- 
tractive goal that lured the hopes and 
^ shaped the plans of a little company of 
us in the early days of June, nineteen hun- 
dred and eight. With nearly all of us it was 
our first trip abroad, and there lay before us in 
prospect a bright vision of fair lands and majes- 
tic Alps, splendid cities, famous galleries, and 
grand cathedrals, suffused and glorified with the 
historic spirit of many centuries. Our party 
was a congenial company, and delightful fel- 
lowship and fun added much to the pleasure of 
the tour. 

Pittsburgh was our starting point, and on Thurs- 
day morning, June 25, we were off for Buffalo 
and Montreal, where we were to take our steamer. 
After crossing the Niagara near Buffalo we were 
on foreign soil and soon felt the slight but dis- 
tinct strangeness of things. At this point we first 

11 



12 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

encountered that ubiquitous and unpopular officer 
at all international boundaries — the customs in- 
spector. He is an inquisitive and persistent per- 
son who insists on fumbling around in one's be- 
longings and has a sharp' eye for diamonds and 
silks and a specially keen scent for tobacco and 
wines ; but none of us were ever caught with any 
of these goods on us. Whether it was because we 
were clever in concealment or because we were 
Presbyterians need not be said, but we never 
fell under suspicion and were nearly always 
treated with courteous consideration. The run 
to Buffalo and Toronto was over smooth tracks 
through a beautiful country, and in the night we 
passed from Toronto to Montreal. 

MONTREAL 

The next morning we were in the environs of 
this ancient, historic city. Here we had our first 
glimpse of the stately and storied St. Lawrence 
River. The view was interfered with by a huge 
advertisement of an American patent medicine, 
painted on a large barn, but there was still some 
of the river left after the big blot had intruded 
its ugly and impertinent presence. After being 
comfortably located in a hotel, we set out to ex- 
plore the city. Montreal was founded in 1642 and 



ON THE WAY 13 

now has 400,000 people. It lies on the north shore 
of the St. Lawrence and is seven miles long by 
two miles broad. Two-thirds of the people are 
French and one-third English, and St. Lawrence 
Street, running north and south, divides the eastern 
French section from the western English section 
of the city. All through Canada, but especially 
in the eastern part, the French and English live 
side by side in peaceable relations with very little 
racial friction, although they remain distinct in 
language, and thus are bound together the two 
races that once contended in long and bloody con- 
flict for the country and the continent. Back of 
the city lies Mount Royal, from which it is named, 
and from this summit one gets a magnificent view 
of the city and river and country, with the moun- 
tains of Vermont looming up on the southern 
horizon. 

The Roman Catholic Church is the dominant 
institution in Montreal, and the streets swarm 
with priests and nuns in all manner of strange 
garbs. There are numerous Catholic churches, 
and two imposing cathedrals, which we visited. 
We also noted several large Presbyterian 
churches, and were told by a resident that Pres- 
byterianism is an influential Protestant factor 
in the city. Montreal abounds in ancient land- 
marks and relics and is a veritable museum of his- 



14 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

tory; and the whole St. Lawrence valley is 
stamped with famous footprints of the past. 

In the evening we boarded our steamer and 
started down the river, one thousand miles to the 
sea. The next day at noon we arrived at Quebec, 
passing a few miles above the city the twisted 
mass of steel bars that is the wreck of the great 
bridge that was being thrown across the river 
and fell of its own weight, with a loss of eighty 
lives. 

QUEBEC 

This city, which was founded in 1608, sits 
perched on a great beak of rock projecting into 
the river, the ancient part of the city, consisting 
of narrow, crooked streets or alleys, and curious 
old houses, clinging to the base and incrusting 
the sides of the rock like moss. The lower part 
is a bit of Mediaeval Europe thrust into modern 
America, and the upper part contains a magnifi- 
cent hotel and streets of newly-built houses. 
Again we encountered the black-robed, omnipres- 
ent priest, and breathed an atmosphere saturated 
and musty with Rome. We visited the Plains of 
Abraham, where was fought the decisive battle 
between the French and the English, and the Falls 
of Montmorency, where a large stream of water 
leaps in a sheet of milk-white foam over a preci- 



ON THE WAY 15 

pice one hundred feet higher than Niagara, and 
other historic and scenic places. The view from 
the upper city out over the river and whole pic- 
turesque region is said to be one of the finest in 
the world. Quebec, with its seventy-five thousand 
people, has fewer than ten thousand English, the 
rest being French, and yet these few English are 
the political and commercial masters of the city. 
On Saturday evening we started down the St. 
Lawrence and for two and a half days sailed 
through scenes that are famous in song and story. 
One was surprised to see so many towns and 
villages along the shores, at some points the 
houses forming a continuous village for miles. 
The great barns showed the prosperity of the 
farmers, and everything indicated thrift and com- 
fort. The most conspicuous feature of each town 
was the Roman Catholic church, which was al- 
ways a large structure, apparently out of all pro- 
portion to the place in size and cost. Each such 
church doubtless draws from a considerable area, 
yet one cannot but feel that Rome burdens the 
people with an establishment of property and 
priests expensive beyond anything that Protes- 
tantism gets or asks. The noble river with an 
average width of several miles broadened into 
the gulf, and the gulf into the sea. By Tuesday 
morning we had left behind the last trace of 



16 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

shore and were on ihe broad bosom of the 
Atlantic. 

ON THE ATLANTIC 

Our first desire was to explore the ship, and 
under the guidance of a courteous engineer we 
pkmged into the bowels of the great leviathan of 
the deep. The engine room of an ocean liner is 
a place of wonder, if not of terror, to the lands- 
man. The Canada, of the Domonion Line, is 
a twin-screw steamer propelled by giant engines, 
making eighty revolutions a minute and driving 
the huge mass of steel through the sea at from 
15 to 18 miles an hour. Each shaft is driven by 
three engines, a high-pressure, middle-pressure, 
and low pressure. It may interest some of our 
readers to know the relative size and power of 
these three engines. The first has an average 
steam pressure of 80 pounds, a cylinder 28 inches 
in diameter, and develops 1,120 horse-power; the 
second has an average steam pressure of 27 
pounds, a cylinder 47 inches in diameter, and de- 
velops 1,021 horse-power; and the third has an 
average steam pressure of 11 pounds, a cylinder 
yy inches in diameter, and develops 1,185 horse- 
power. The total horse-power is thus about 6,- 
600, which is still small compared with the 30,- 
000 horse-power turbines of the big Cunarders, 



ON THE WAY 17 

making 300 revolutions a minute and driving the 
monster ships 26 to 30 miles an hour. These en- 
gines, like tireless giants, turn the great steel 
shafts running out through the stern of the 
ship and churn the propeller blades against the 
water ceaselessly day and night, and the whole 
ship quivers and throbs under their incessant 
pounding. 

It is a place of terrific heat and noise down 
in those lower regions where the darkness is 
broken by the glare of the opened furnace doors 
and grimy men shovel coal and watch the en- 
gines every minute of the day. The men work 
in turns of four hours on and eight hours off, 
and on their skill and faithfulness the speed and 
safety of the ship depend. The engine and boiler 
room is the great, glowing, throbbing heart of 
the ship that drives it through the sea, splitting 
it at the prow into wave and spray and trampling 
it into white and green foam. The stately ship 
moves like a thing of life and rides the water 
as gracefully as a swan. In majesty and might, 
in intricate and powerful mechanism, in tremen- 
dous momentum yet sensitiveness and obedience 
to control, in grace and beauty it is one of the 
most marvelous products of the human brain 
and hand. In no other sphere does man pit his 
skill and cunning more squarely against the might 



18 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

and mystery of nature than upon the sea, and he 
subdues its proud waves under his hand and 
rides to victory. 

The ship is a complex human world that falls 
into different sections and levels. In its vertical 
sections it is divided first into the forecastle or 
" fo'c's'le/' where the sailors live in dens in the 
prow, work on the decks, and gather in the even- 
ing to sing songs and spin sea yarns, talking a 
lingo that is often an unknown tongue to the 
landsman. Next come the first-class passengers 
in the best quarters on the ship, farther back are 
the second-class passengers in good quarters, and 
at the stern are the third-class or steerage pas- 
sengers, who sleep on bunks and eat on benches 
below. These classes are confined to their own 
quarters, except the first-class passengers, who 
have the run of the whole ship. In its horizontal 
strata the engineers and stokers are at the bot- 
tom; at the next higher level are the sailors at 
the prow, the steerage passengers at the stern, and 
amidships are the commissary departments, in- 
cluding the kitchens and storage rooms. At this 
level also is a complete hospital with a physi- 
cian in charge, and any case of illness can be 
taken care of. At the upper levels are the first- 
and second-class passengers, staterooms, and offi- 
cers' quarters. The crew from the gold-laced 



ON THE WAY 19 

captain down to the stokers at the boilers are 
English, with a few Welsh and Irish, and form 
a splendid piece of English discipline, subordi- 
nate to authority and thoroughly trained and 
trustworthy. The crew speaks English with its 
peculiar " cockney " accent, and the funniest 
thing we heard on the ship was an English stew- 
ard telling an Irish steward to " speak plain," 
when he could hardly be understood himself. 

Acquaintances were rapidly formed among 
the passengers and soon they were a lively com- 
pany. There was much reading and resting and 
walking the decks, games were played and even- 
ing entertainments were given. On the Sabbath 
divine service was held, and a cosmopolitan con- 
gregation assembled, gathered from many lands 
but holding a common faith. The ship's purser 
invited the writer to conduct the service on the 
first Sabbath, and it was a peculiar privilege and 
pleasure to preach in such circumstances to such 
a congregation. On the second and third days 
out many seats in the dining room were left va- 
cant, but the writer never missed a meal or felt 
a qualm. The salt sea air, of unsullied purity 
and pungent freshness, was a fine tonic, exhil- 
arating the blood, whetting the appetite keen, and 
inducing deep, dreamless sleep. 

Old ocean lay around us in a sharply-defined, 



20 A sum:mer across the sea 

perfect circle and never ceased to be an object of 
varied interest and changeful beauty and of grand 
majesty and mystery. No storm arose to stir and 
lash it into wrathful might, but a stiff breeze set 
it rolling and tumbling in a wide, weltering waste 
and flecked it with whitecaps far out to the hori- 
zon. We left Pittsburgh in the midst of intense 
heat and it was still hot at Montreal and Quebec, 
but in two days out on the ocean the heaviest win- 
ter wraps were necessary; when we struck the 
Gulf Stream, however, the icy air mellowed into 
genial warmth. Off the Banks of Newfoundland 
a fog enveloped the ship in its dense gray mist 
for two days, and the raucous foghorn blew its 
hoarse, warning blast every two minutes. The 
fog then cleared away, and during the greater 
part of our voyage we were favored with the fin- 
est weather, and the pellucid, light blue sky 
poured its opalescent splendor down upon the 
dark blue sea. No icebergs were seen, but on the 
Fourth of July a whale threw up its hat and cele- 
brated the day by spouting jets and clouds of 
spray into the air. Only a single ship was 
sighted during the main passage and thus was dis- 
proved the saying that " sails whiten every sea "; 
but wireless telegrams flashed between our ship 
and other liners and kept us in touch with the 
world. In mid-ocean a " marconigram " was 



ON THE WAY 21 

posted on the bulletin board, announcing the 
chief current events in New York and London. 
When we came out on the deck on Sunday- 
morning, July 5, we saw the green sod of " ould 
Ireland " and knew we were near the end of the 
voyage. Ships of all kinds now appeared in in- 
creasing numbers, and the great sight of the 
morning was the passing of the big Cunarder 
Lusitania outward bound for New York. She 
loomed up as a giant alongside of our modest 
liner, standing high out of the water and carry- 
ing four big smokestacks, and majestically swept 
by us at the rate of thirty miles an hour. During 
the day we steamed along the Irish coast, in the 
evening a glorious sunset burnt behind burnished 
bars of cloud, kindling the sky into a grand cos- 
mic conflagration and turning the smooth sea 
into molten gold. In the night we passed up the 
Irish Channel, and the next morning we landed 
at Liverpool and set foot on the soil of England. 



II 

IN SCOTLAND 

ON landing at Liverpool we passed 
through the hurly-burly of the custom 
house and emerged into this great ship- 
ping port of 700,000 people. A ride around 
the city in one of the double-decked street cars 
universally used here showed us how solid is 
its wealth and how general its comfort. Yet as it 
is largely a modern commercial city it does not 
differ greatly from Pittsburgh or Buffalo, except 
in an indescribable foreign air and several dis- 
tinctive features. One of these, of course, was 
the English money, which for a little time con- 
fused us. At first, when anyone told us the price 
of anything we held out a handful of coins and 
let him take his choice; but we soon learned that 
" a pund " is more than a crown and presently 
got initiated into the mysteries of " ha'penny," 
" tuppence," " two and six," and so on. Another 
noticeable feature of the city was the absence of 
skyscrapers, the height of buildings in England 

being limited by Act of Parliament to the width 

22 



IN SCOTLAND 23 

of the street. This is partly due to the high 
northern latitude which slants the rays of the 
sun so that they would never reach the bottom of 
such deep canyons as some of our American 
streets are. 

Another result of this high latitude at once 
observable by an American is the long day. Up 
in Scotland we found the sun shining at nearly 
nine o'clock in the evening, and it was still light 
at ten o'clock, the sun rising the next morning 
at about half-past three. In the winter, of course, 
the day is correspondingly short, when daylight 
comes after eight o'clock in the morning, and 
darkness sets in before four o'clock in the after- 
noon. Still another result of the high latitude is 
the coolness of the summer. We have as yet ex- 
perienced no warm weather in England, and while 
we have been reading that America was roasting 
we have been comfortable in winter clothing, and 
English and Scottish ladies could be seen wearing 
furs. Tourists do not linger in Liverpool, and 
at noon we started north for Scotland. 

THE ENGLISH COUNTRY 

In passing north we had a good view of the 
English country, and were impressed with its 
beauty, careful cultivation, and fertility. The 



24 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

moist climate keeps vegetation fresh and the vivid 
greens of the fields and forests were strikingly 
beautiful. The farm-houses and barns were 
nearly always of stone, and miles upon miles of 
fences were also of stone that had been patiently 
and solidly piled up by hand. Everything about 
the country indicated thrift and comfort. The 
cultivation of the fields and gardens was a con- 
stant surprise and wonder to us. There was no 
waste land, no weedy fields or ragged strips along 
the fences and roads, but every foot of ground was 
utilized. Even under the trees and in the fringes 
of forest the ground was kept clean and neat. 
The sward in the meadows seemed as smooth as 
carpet. Centuries of cultivation have rolled and 
shaven these meadows until the grass is often like 
nap on an Oriental rug. Our own country is poorly 
cultivated and ill-kept and ragged compared with 
England. The English farmer has learned in- 
tensive farming ; he farms less land, but he farms 
it more. Of course England has long experience 
and is crowded into small space. She has little 
land, but makes the most of it. All England is 
only about a fifth larger than Pennsylvania and 
has about seven times as many people; so she 
has learned to cultivate her little island and has 
turned it into a garden of fertility and beauty. 
The English roads are also a striking feature 



IN SCOTLAND 25 

of the country. They are thoroughly macadam- 
ized and rolled down with steam rollers until 
they are solid and smooth and afford easy and 
rapid travel to all vehicles. Such roads are one 
of the greatest needs of our own country. We 
had our first experience of English railways on 
our journey north from Liverpool. The English 
rails, cars, and locomotives are lighter than ours, 
but everything is of the most solid construction 
and the trains are swifter than ours. We found 
the first train we were on was scheduled to run 
three miles an hour faster than the Empire Ex- 
press on the New York Central, about the fastest 
train in America. There are no grade crossings, 
all roads and streets being carried over the tracks 
on stone or brick bridges. The stations are de- 
cidedly superior to ours, and the English build 
everything to last. The English cars, with side 
doors opening into compartments, have some ad- 
vantages, such as quickness and ease in entering 
and leaving the car and privacy when a congenial 
party gets a compartment to itself, but we still 
like our American cars better. 



AYR 

Our first stop in Scotland was at Ayr, the birth- 
place of Robert Burns. The town is on the sea, 



26 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

with a population of 40,000, and as usual with 
all Scotch towns and cities is built so compactly 
of stone that it looks almost as though it were 
hewn out of solid rock. We asked a resident why 
they built everything of stone and he said he sui> 
posed it was because there is so much of it. It 
is true there is little wood in Scotland and plenty 
of stone, but it is characteristic of Scotch char- 
acter that it best expresses its own unyielding 
and lasting nature in sandstone and granite. The 
spirit of Burns, who in his boyhood days was a 
ne'er-do-weel as he loafed with tipsy companions 
about the streets and alehouses of Ayr, now per- 
vades the place and has given it all the signifi- 
cance it has to the world. Burns is everywhere 
in statues and monuments and relics, and his 
birthplace is a shrine that draws visitors from all 
over the world to its humble door. The house in 
which he was born is a low stone cottage, with 
thatched roof and four rooms, one of the rooms 
being the stable. It is with feelings of reverence 
that one stands by the bed that marks the spot 
where was born this child of genius that turned 
daisies and all the commonest things of life into 
the glorious fabric of his imagination. Near by 
are the ruins of the " Auld Kirk " that gave the 
poet so much trouble and was repaid with his 
scorn, and a little beyond flows the " bonnie 



IN SCOTLAND 27 

Doon," the limpid stream on the banks of which 
Burns played as a boy, and which he has im- 
mortalized in song. Nowhere else in Scotland 
did we see so many intoxicated men and so many 
alehouses as in Ayr, and the native town of 
Robert Burns has evidently not taken to heart 
the lesson of his pitiful life. 

THE SCOTTISH LAKE REGION 

Our next point was Glasgow, the largest city 
in Scotland, with 800,000 population. It is a 
great shipbuilding and manufacturing center. A 
call was made on Professor Orr, now well known 
in America, but he was out of the city. We vis- 
ited the University of Glasgow and found it 
closed, but it has the most imposing university 
buildings we have ever seen. The United Free 
Presbyterian Church must be exceptionally strong 
in this city, judging by the number of large and 
fine churches belonging to it we observed. From 
Glasgow we passed through the Scottish lake re- 
gion over lochs Lomond and Katrine and the 
Trossachs, a region in which mountains and lakes 
are thrown together in wild and picturesque con- 
fusion. We stopped for an hour at Stirling, a 
center of Scottish history where is a fine old 
castle in which Scottish royalty resided. Near 



28 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

by it is the celebrated Greyfriars church in which 
John Knox preached the sermon at the corona- 
tion of James the Sixth, and close by the church 
in the graveyard is the grave of the gifted and 
lamented Henry Drummond. An hour's ride 
from Stirling brought us to 

EDINBURGH 

This ancient capital and modern Athens of 
Scotland is one of the most important cities of 
Great Britain and one of the most cultured cities 
of Europe. In population it has less than 400,- 
000, but in historic interest and intellectual weight 
it tips the scale over every other British city ex- 
cept London. The great castle that sits perched 
on its mighty rock is the central core of the city 
whence its growth and power have issued. It 
is one of the most celebrated castles of Europe, 
and is crowded with memories and relics of the 
past. Here Scottish clans fought each other for 
possession of this central key, and over its steep 
slopes and battlemented top Scotch and English 
engaged in many a hand-to-hand conflict. On the 
very tip of the rock stands the tiny St. Margaret's 
Chapel, dating from the eleventh century, the 
oldest church in Scotland. A great group of 
buildings is inclosed within the walls, including 
Queen Mary's private apartments and the Ban- 



IN SCOTLAND 29 

queting Hall in which Scottish and English kings 
and queens held revelry and where tragedies also 
were enacted. The hall is now a museum of 
swords and guns and ancient armor and other 
relics of mediaeval days and personages and events 
that are immortal in song and story. Down a 
dark narrow pair of stone steps is the dungeon 
in the heart of the tower over the gate in which 
prisoners of State were kept until, mayhap, they 
were led forth to execution. The top and sides 
of this great rock have been saturated with blood 
and have witnessed some of the most momen- 
tous events in English history. 

The great rock, which rises in a sheer precipice 
on three sides, on the fourth side slopes down 
along a ridge, on the edge of which runs High 
Street to Holyrood Palace at its foot. This street 
is one of the most celebrated in Europe, though 
now its glory has largely departed and on its 
lower stretches it runs through the slums of the 
city. Near the top of the street stands the United 
Free Assembly Hall, which, together with New 
College, which is a part of the quadrangular 
structure, is the official center of the United Free 
Church; and a little further down the street is 
St. Giles' Cathedral, the center of the Established 
Church and a Mecca for Presbyterians from all 
over the world. Here John Knox preached and 



80 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

laid hold of Scotland with such a deep and last- 
ing grip that he tore it out of the hands of Rome 
and made it free and Presbyterian to this day. 
The body of the great reformer sleeps under the 
cobblestone pavement beside the church, and 
farther down the street is the house in which he 
lived, preserved practically as he left it. One 
experienced strange feelings as he stood in the 
narrow den of a study and sat in the chair where 
that man of granite frame and iron blood forged 
the bolts with which he struck the shackles of 
Rome from Scotland and created a great people. 
On down the street is old Greyfriars Church, 
in the graveyard of which is a monument over 
the remains of most of the eighteen thousand 
martyrs that were put to death in Edinburgh 
during the "killing time" of 1661-1688, when 
the English were trying to make the Scotch Pres- 
byterians conform to the Anglican Church. But 
it was impossible for the sword to uproot what 
Knox had planted, and Scotland then purchased 
with a great price the Presbyterian faith and 
freedom which it holds to this day. High Street 
is lined with historic places, such as the house 
in which David Hume wrote his history and the 
one in which Adam Smith wrote his " Wealth 
of Nations," and at the bottom it runs into 
Holyrood Palace, the royal residence of Scottish 



IN SCOTLAND 81 

kings and queens, which is second in interest 
only to the castle itself. Here are the apartments 
of Queen Mary and the room in which her pri- 
vate secretary was murdered at her side. Around 
this cliff and ridge of rock lies the modern Edin- 
burgh, with its fine streets and public institutions, 
but it is the rock that gives significance to the 
city and juts up as a strategic peak of history 
that is visible all over the world. 



MELROSE ABBEY AND ABBOTSFORD 

From Edinburgh we went to Melrose, forty 
miles to the south, which is another Scottish 
world-wide attraction. Here are the remains of 
Melrose Abbey, the wrecked, fire-scorched, time- 
defaced ruins of what was once the finest abbey 
in Scotland, if not in all England. It requires no 
special gift to appreciate the rare beauty and 
charm of these ruins, and the wonder is how back 
in the fourteenth century men could conceive and 
build a structure that all our science and art could 
not equal or perhaps even reproduce, and the pity 
is that border warfare and the Reformation ha- 
tred of Rome so ruthlessly despoiled it. 

Melrose is further noted as the seat of the great 
baronial palace built by Sir Walter Scott as his 
final residence. It cost him about $375,000 and 



32 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

was one of the blunders that involved him in 
financial ruin and hastened his death. Here he 
wrote upwards of forty of his works, and here 
he burst into tears when he found his paralyzed 
hand could no more hold the pen that had be- 
witched the world with its wizardry of words. 
The palace remains with his books and wonderful 
collection of mediaeval relics just as he left it, and 
it is one of the literary shrines of the world. 

Thus in our rapid tour through Scotland we 
visited the scenes of the birth and the work of 
Knox, Burns, and Scott, the three men who more 
than any other made Scotland and sowed 
precious, imperishable seed that is now blooming 
on every shore. Let the world jibe at Scotland 
for its stubbornness and bigotry as it may, those 
of us who have ancestral roots running back into 
its rocks are proud of our blood, and all of us 
owe it a debt we never can repay. 



Ill 

IN ENGLAND 

RETURNING from Scotland to England 
we first stopped at Chester, an old Eng- 
■- lish town near Liverpool which has 
been but slightly touched with modern change. 
It was originally a Roman camp, and the 
wall the Romans built around it still stands 
and bears witness to the solidity of their work. 
Its narrow streets and quaint houses carry one 
back into an earlier England and it lies as an islet 
in the midst of the rushing England of to-day. 
There is also an ancient cathedral in the town 
which is worthy of a visit. Passing on we came 
next to 

STRATFORD-ON-AVON 

This town, like ancient Bethlehem, is little 
among the cities of the land, but it has one great 
name that overshadows all England and overtops 
the world. The place has about nine thousand peo- 
ple and has good houses of stone and brick, but 
these would never draw from many lands forty 

33 



34 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

thousand visitors a year to its seat. The name of 
William Shakespeare is its priceless treasure and 
powerful attraction. As his birthplace and the 
custodian of his dust it is one of the greatest, if 
not the greatest, literary shrine in the world. The 
house in which the poet was born stands intact 
and is now a national possession. It contains 
many editions of the poet's works and many relics 
that go back to his time, but no single article or 
scrap of paper or scratch of the pen that belonged 
to or was made by him. His own large and costly 
house in which he lived after he retired from 
the stage was torn down, and only a bit of the 
foundation remains and is carefully preserved. 

The chief object of interest in the town is Holy 
Trinity Church, which contains the remains of the 
poet. The church is an ancient stone building, 
constructed of a soft stone which is showing signs 
of advanced decay. It stands close to the Avon, 
a clear, beautiful stream about twenty yards wide, 
that flows by softly and silently as if in reverent 
awe of the place; at least the human tide that now 
ceaselessly flows around and through that church 
is touched with a deep feeling of awe in the pres- 
ence of the mighty dead. A graveyard, contain- 
ing many old tombstones, surrounds the church, 
and, as in the case of many English churches, has 
invaded the church itself, so that under its stone 



IN ENGLAND 85 

floor are many graves. The body of Shakespeare, 
together with those of his wife and favorite 
daughter, hes in the chancel just in front of the 
altar, and on the wall above the grave is a bust 
of the poet placed there by his family a few years 
after his death and therefore believed to be an 
authentic likeness. On the slab covering the 
grave are carved the well-known lines pronounc- 
ing a curse on anyone disturbing the bones. The 
lines were placed there some years after Shake- 
speare's death and are not believed to be his, but 
they have availed to save the grave from being 
opened, a sacrilege which was once contemplated. 
A deep solemnity fills and surrounds the church 
and seems to impregnate the atmosphere for 
miles around, and there appeared to be less levity 
in the stream of visitors here than at other places. 
It is now nearly three hundred years since this 
humbly-born child of genius left his ashes in this 
quiet village church, but he still speaks in all 
tongues and walks the earth with a mighty stride. 
He shed the many-colored splendors of his imagi- 
nation over all life and gave us a richer world. 

Leaving Strat ford-on- Avon we passed through 
Birmingham, the Pittsburgh of England, riding 
through miles and miles of mills and factories, 
and then we came to the place where all modern 
roads run, as once they ran to Rome. 



36 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

LONDON 

London is the biggest hub of civilization on the 
planet, the vastest aggregation and ganglionic 
knot of human beings on the earth. If observers 
on Mars can discern any dimmest sign of intelli- 
gent construction on this planet, as we can see 
their supposed canals, they would see London as 
the largest point, for it is incomparably the hugest 
physical object ever built by human hands. Sim- 
ply as a space-occupying bulk, it is something 
gigantic. The exact center of the city is Charing 
Cross, on the river Thames. From this center the 
city sends the spokes of its mighty wheel out 
fifteen miles in every direction, so that it is a 
circle thirty miles in diameter and ninety miles 
in circumference. Its population is now about 
six and a half millions and still it is growing. 
Already one rides through miles of suburbs in 
approaching it, and eveiy year it throws farther 
its huge tentacles and gathers into its grasp a 
wider territory. It is as though the whole State 
of Pennsylvania were crowded into Washington 
County. It covers 700 square miles, and has 
7,000 miles of streets, and 900,000 inhabited 
houses. Perhaps the most striking indication of 
its vastness is the fact that one hundred railway 
trains depart from it every hour in the twenty- 
four. These many lines of railway are the veins 



IN ENGLAND 37 

that supply this great heart and the arteries that 
pour its blood out upon the world. It is the politi- 
cal, financial, social, intellectual, and religious 
center of England; it is immensely more, for it is 
the official and vital center of the British Empire 
and thus throws its tentacles around the globe; 
and, more still, it is the financial center of the 
whole world. 

The problem of transportation is a pressing one 
in our great modern cities and London has solved 
this problem in a peculiar way. There are first seven 
hundred miles of steam railways in the city. Next 
there is a great system of underground electric 
roads ramifying the city from center to circum- 
ference. One of these systems consists of tubes 
sunk deep under the city, sometimes to a depth 
of a hundred feet or more, passengers being let 
down to and brought up from the trains by 
means of great " lifts " or elevators. But the 
unusual means of surface transportation and 
curious feature of the London streets are its 
omnibuses. There are few surface street cars and 
no abominable elevated roads in the city, but the 
streets swarm with huge double-decked omni- 
buses, some of them drawn by horses and others 
driven by motors. They hold almost as many 
passengers as street cars and run noiselessly and 
speedily on rubber tires. By these means one 



38 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

can ride over the vast area of the city rapidly, 
and there appeared to be less congestion in Lon- 
don than in New Yorl<. While one must take 
the " Tube " or other railways for considerable 
distances, the " bus " is the best means of seeing 
the city. Seated on the upper deck, one rides as 
if mounted on the back of a huge elephant and 
goes towering above all the crowded streets and 
hurrying throngs and changeful scenes and 
strange sights of this great Babylon. We thus 
rode through and under and around the city for 
eight days, feeling its powerful pulse and breath- 
ing its breath and trying to realize its majestic 
meaning and might. It grew on us as a vast 
organism with a mysterious life of its own. Its 
tides of life flow through its stone canyons or 
stone forests ceaselessly day and night; and be- 
neath all the millions of hurrying faces swept 
along in its rushing streams there are human 
hearts that have each its own secret of life, 
bright with hope or dark with disappointment or 
temptation or tragedy. 

THE TOWER 

As Edinburgh grew from its great gray rock, 
so London has its stone core in its Tower. It 
stands on the Thames near the center of the 



IN ENGLAND 39 

city, and as a fortress, a prison, and a palace has 
played a great and often a dark part in English 
history. William the Conqueror first built it, and 
other kings enlarged it into the present great 
establishment. At first it was a fortress from 
which the Normans ruled England. It then be- 
came a royal residence, and was the scene of 
many a State function and high revel. In its 
dungeons many an unhappy prisoner spent tedious 
days and years, or went out from them to execu- 
tion. In its court is marked the spot where 
Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives of 
Henry VIII, Lady Jane Grey, and many other 
noted persons were beheaded. In its Bloody 
Tower the two young princes were put to death. 
Some tragedy is connected with every part of 
it, and one feels that the whole Tower is spat- 
tered with blood. If '' murder speaks out of 
stone walls," these stones must cry day and night. 
The Tower consists of a great central building, 
called the White Tower, which is surrounded 
with a wall with thirteen smaller towers, and 
this by a second outer wall which is surrounded 
with a moat, which can still be filled with water. 
The place is now used as a barracks for English 
soldiers. A stream of visitors pours into it every 
week-day, and its bloodstained walls and courts 
have a strange fascination. 



40 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

In the White Tower is the armory where there 
is a wonderful collection of mediaeval armor. 
There are many complete suits of armor, entirely 
encasing man and horse in metal, often exqui- 
sitely chased in steel and inlaid with gold. Some 
of these suits weigh over a hundred pounds and 
look very cumbersome. Gunpowder and bullets 
finally put them out of business. In another 
tower are the crown jewels and royal regalia of 
England. Piled up in a steel cage, twenty feet 
in diameter, are the crowns worn by English 
kings and queens, sacramental dishes, maces that 
were carried as insignia of office, all of solid 
gold, the crowns being thickly set with large 
jewels and incrusted with smaller gems. It must 
be one of the greatest collections of jewels and 
gold plate in the world, and its glittering splen- 
dor is a dazzling sight. 

Only a brief reference can be made to the 
British Museum, the greatest in the world, where 
we saw the original Rosetta Stone and many 
other priceless treasures of archaeology and art. 
Tucked away in an obscure corner in London 
near the Tower we found a small ancient church 
in which we saw in the original books the record 
of the baptism of William Penn, of the date of 
October 33, 1644, and of the marriage of John 
Quincy Adams, signed by his own hand, under 



IN ENGLAND 41 

the date of July 26, 1797. London is full of 
such things. 

WINDSOR CASTLE 

Fifteen miles out from London, but virtually a 
part of it, is Windsor Castle, which was one of 
the most interesting places we visited. It is the 
chief of the five royal residences provided by the 
government for the king of England and is one 
of the most splendid royal establishments in the 
world. As seen from a distance its battlemented 
walls and towers fulfill our ideal of what a castle 
ought to be and a visit within surpasses all ex- 
pectations. It was founded in early times, has 
been a growth through ages, and has cost mil- 
lions of money, about $5,000,000 being ex- 
pended on it during the reign of Victoria alone. 
The walls include many buildings and upwards 
of a thousand people live within its precincts. 
Visitors are admitted to several of its most im- 
portant places, but not, of course, into the pri- 
vate apartments of the king and queen. The 
first building we visited was St. George's Chapel, 
which is a large church and one of the most beau- 
tiful churches in the world. The main window 
of the nave is of glass of the fourteenth century, 
and the jewel-like colors surpass in depth and 
richness the finest work of the present day. The 



42 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

choir of the church is magnificently decorated in 
gold and with rich carving and stained glass, and 
the effect is beautiful beyond description. There 
are special seats for the king and queen, but 
they seldom worship there, and have a private 
chapel in another part of the castle. 

We next were shown through the Apartments 
of State in the castle, or the rooms where noted 
visitors, such as foreign royalties, are received 
and entertained. These large rooms and halls, 
the main banqueting hall being a hundred feet 
long, were a revelation of royal splendor and 
seemed to surpass even fairy tales. All that 
money can buy and art can fashion has been 
lavished upon these apartments. Pictures from 
the greatest painters line the walls. One room 
contains only works by Van Dyck, another is 
given up to Rubens, and the works of many other 
famous painters appear. The carpets, furniture, 
and furnishings are of the most luxurious kind. 
Armor, plate, and jewelry abound. One jeweled 
peacock cost $150,000. The eye tired of so much 
splendor, and we were almost glad to escape from 
the glittering palace. Are human beings any 
happier in such magnificence? This very castle 
has housed many an unhappy heart. King Ed- 
ward himself does not seem to care for the place, 
for he lives in it scarcely a month in the year, 



IN ENGLAND 43 

and prefers the much smaller Buckingham Palace 
in London. Before leaving the castle we went 
down into the dungeons in the cellars of one of 
the towers and stood in the dark narrow stone 
cells where many a prisoner has been confined, 
and squeezed into the horribly cramped cell where 
the unhappy Anne Boleyn slept the night before 
her execution. Windsor Castle is magnificent, 
but one leaves it more contented than ever with 
his own humble home. 



OXFORD UNIVERSITY 

We went out to Oxford, forty miles from Lon- 
don, and spent a half-day in one of the two great 
universities of England. The town contains about 
fifty thousand inhabitants, and the students num- 
ber above three thousand. The university con- 
sists of a group of twenty-one colleges, each hav- 
ing its own government, professors, students, and 
courses of instruction. These colleges are fed- 
erated in a general government which alone has 
the power of granting degrees. Many of the 
colleges were founded centuries ago and are rich 
in historic associations. The buildings are gen- 
erally mossy with age. Few of them are impos- 
ing, but the chapels in many of them are beauti- 
ful. The Bodleian Library is the general library 



44 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

of the university and is famous, but it is a shabby 
place with a musty air. The Sheldonian Theatre 
is the historic auditorium where the convocations 
of the university are held and degrees are 
granted, and it has witnessed many famous 
scenes. An American is surprised to find a dig- 
nified official in each of these public buildings of 
the university who intimates that a " trifle," 
usually a sixpence, is expected from the visitor; 
but the receiving of tips and fees is so universal 
in England that even universities are not above 
the petty business. 

The largest and most distinguished college 
at Oxford is Christ Church, founded by Car- 
dinal Wolsey. It has a fine quadrangle, on one 
side of which is the beautiful cathedral and on 
another a splendid hall in which are gathered the 
portraits of a long line of famous graduates, in- 
cluding King Edward VII, and no fewer than 
seven prime ministers of the nineteenth century, 
and standing in that hall one realizes how strong 
is the historic spirit that pervades these univer- 
sity colleges and binds them into unity and 
strength. We looked with peculiar interest on 
the rooms in one corner of the quadrangle in 
which lives Professor William Sanday, the 
scholar who is doing so much for advanced yet 
solid and sane Biblical study. The buildings of 



IN ENGLAND 45 

this famous university do not compare in spa- 
ciousness and splendor with those of some of our 
universities and colleges, yet it is not marble and 
money that make universities, but men; and in 
men and scholarship and historic spirit these Eng- 
lish universities are powerful seats of learning 
that send out their light and truth into all the 
world. 



IV 
SOME LONDON CHURCHES 

LONDON is a city of churches, and a view 
out over the general level shows their 
^ spires springing up like a forest. There 
are about sixteen hundred churches of all kinds, 
six hundred of them being Anglican, eight 
hundred Nonconformist, and two hundred being 
Roman Catholic, Jewish, and foreign. We at- 
tended services in five prominent churches, and 
give brief impressions of them. 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY 

The Church of England, of course, over- 
shadows everything else, and its greatest church, 
and probably the chief Protestant church in the 
world, is the stately and renowned Westminster 
Abbey. The structure is the purest and most per- 
fect piece of Gothic architecture in England. 
Like nearly all great churches, it has been an evo- 
lution and has been centuries in building. When 

one steps into it he is suddenly ushered into a 

46 




WESTMINSTER ABBEY 



SOME LONDON CHURCHES 47 

scene of solemn and splendid magnificence. The 
nave and transept form a great cross with the 
vaulted roof more than one hundred feet above 
the pavement. It is about four hundred feet long 
in the nave and two hundred feet wide in the 
transept. Both nave and transept are divided 
into three aisles by rows of columns rising into 
pointed arches, over these arches are smaller 
arches, and high above these is the clerestory 
through which the light comes. Glorious rose 
windows of jewel-like coloring are at the ends of 
nave and transept. The vaulted roof is an intricate 
network of luxuriant stone ornamentation that 
looks like delicate frost crystals. Numerous small 
chapels are tucked away in its side aisles, and one 
large and splendid one is the chapel of King 
Henry VH, which is in itself a large church. 

A great feature of the Abbey are the graves 
and monuments of England's mighty dead. The 
whole Abbey in all its aisles and chapels is literally 
crowded with these, and it is one great mauso- 
leum. Famous kings of the past, such as Edward 
I and HI, Henry HI and VH, Queen Elizabeth, 
and the unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots, mod- 
ern statesmen, such as Peel, Disraeli, and Glad- 
stone, are buried here, and over them are suitable 
monuments, many of them images carved in 
marble or cast in bronze. Famous scientists and 



48 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

poets are here. Newton, J. F. Herschel, Darwin, 
and Kelvin are among tlie great scientists. In the 
famous Poets' Corner are Chaucer, Milton, Dry- 
den; and beautiful it is to see Tennyson and 
Browning sleeping side by side. Cromwell was 
buried here, but at the Restoration his body was 
dug up and cast out. The whole place is a grave- 
yard of greatness and genius so cluttered up with 
the mighty dead there is scarcely room for the 
living. Almost every stone in the pavement is 
inscribed with some great name, and one is con- 
stantly walking over the dead. The very atmos- 
phere seems saturated and oppressive with the 
spirit of the past. All the kings and queens of 
England since the time of the Conqueror have 
been crowned here, and the old chair in which 
they all have sat during the investiture is kept as 
one of the treasures of the Abbey. 

Service is held in the Abbey thrice every week- 
day and five times on the Sabbath. We attended 
the Sabbath afternoon service twice. The full 
service of the Anglican prayer book was used and 
a sermon was preached. An immense audience 
on both occasions filled a large part of the tran- 
sept and nave, being seated on plain benches on 
the stone floor. The two sermons we heard were 
by canons of the Abbey, Canons Duckworth and 
Beeching, who preached sermons of ordinary 



SOME LONDON CHURCHES 49 

merit. Good and wholesome teaching they were, 
but they would not have got for either of the 
preachers a call to a Presbyterian church of the 
first rank in our own country. But the striking 
feature of the Westminster Abbey service is the 
music. There is a great organ of singular depth 
and sweetness and power, touched by a master 
hand; and the choir is composed of twenty boys 
and twelve men with voices of rare purity, trained 
into the highest skill. The singing accompanied 
by the organ is the grandest church music we ever 
heard. The boy voices are so pure and clear and 
fine that one would think they are the voices of 
the most highly gifted women singers. The vol- 
ume of music swells into a great mass of rich 
and powerful chords and then sinks into far-away 
voices; and it rolls and reverberates through the 
long aisles and lofty arches, gathering depth and 
richness and tenderness, until more than anything 
we ever heard it seemed like music from heaven; 
and its grand Amen was so satisfying that one 
felt the " Lost Chord " had indeed been found. 

The abbey is deeply in debt, its deanery is mort- 
gaged, and its lofty central tower, planned for it 
by Sir Christopher Wren, is yet a great architect's 
dream. England owes it to herself and to the 
religious world to complete this historic church 
that is one of the treasures of Christendom. We 



50 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

took care to visit the famous Jerusalem Chamber 
in the Abbey, which is so full of interest to Pres- 
byterians, where our Confession of Faith and 
catechisms were produced, and where the Revised 
Version of the Bible was made. We looked with 
special interest on the chair which was occupied 
during the work of revision by Professor M. B. 
Riddle, of our Western Theological Seminary. 



ST, MARGARETS AND ST. PAULS 

St. Margaret's Church is in the same yard with 
Westminster Abbey, under its very shadow. It 
is an ancient church and full of the dead. We 
attended an evening service in this church and 
found it crowded. The choir was good, but not 
to be compared with that in the abbey. Canon 
Henson was the preacher, and we were told by 
a member of the Anglican Church to make sure 
of hearing him as one of the best preachers of 
the Establishment. Smooth-faced, tall and slen- 
der, with a clear, penetrating voice, he held his 
audience closely for twenty-five minutes. His 
subject was a comparison of Christianity to-day 
with its ideal at its beginning, and he took as a 
test of this relation the attitude of the Church to 
the poor. He thought Christianity has fallen 
away from its first teachings and works at this 



SOME LONDON CHURCHES 51 

point, but it shows signs of return. The sermon 
was strong and satisfying. We picked up in a 
London bookshop a recent sermon by Canon Hen- 
son in which he repudiates and unmercifully ex- 
coriates the exclusive claims of the High Church 
Anglicans, quotes an arrogant American Episco- 
pal bishop to say he is " ashamed " of him, and 
declares such pretensions are the greatest obstacle 
to Christian union to-day. 

St. Paul's Cathedral is another great Anglican 
church. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren 
and contains his monument, with its well-known 
inscription in Latin, to the effect that " if the 
reader requires a monument let him look around." 
The cruciform church has a great central dome 
and is a majestic structure, but it does not com- 
pare in solemn beauty with Westminster. It is 
also a crowded mausoleum and mostly contains 
the remains of soldiers and statesmen. Its two 
greatest dead are Nelson, the hero of Trafalgar, 
who died on the deck of his ship in the great vic- 
tory that saved England from Napoleon's Euro- 
pean coalition, and Wellington, the victor of 
Waterloo, who finally extinguished Napoleon's 
star. These two men are honored in monuments 
all over England as the men who saved the coun- 
try against its greatest enemy and peril. We at- 
tended a morning service at St. Paul's, but heard 



52 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

no sermon. The choir is as large as that of West- 
minster, and some think it as fine^ but while its 
singing was beautiful it lacked something of the 
depth and richness of the Abbey music. 

THE CITY TEMPLE 

We went on a Sabbath morning to the City 
Temple to hear the Rev. R. J. Campbell, the suc- 
cessor of the eloquent and famous Joseph Parker. 
Mr. Campbell followed Dr. Parker as an evan- 
gelical preacher, but, as is well known, he has in 
recent years produced a new theology of his own 
manufacture, and has also turned socialist. The 
church seats twenty-five hundred, and at the 
hour of service every seat was filled. The 
preacher stood before us, tall, gray-haired, 
smooth-shaven, with an air or expression of 
deep sadness on his fine face. His voice was 
not strong, but under the pressure of delivery it 
grew tense and vibrant, easily filling the house. 
Some bits of higher criticism came out in his 
reading and explanation of two Scripture pas- 
sages. The prayer was reverent, but contained 
no reference to sin or plea for pardon. The 
sermon, thirty-five minutes' long, was on the 
things which can not be shaken. In a historical 
introduction, the preacher showed that much of 



SOME LONDON CHURCHES 53 

the external fabric of Christianity in its origin 
had been shaken down but its substance and spirit 
remained; and he proceeded to apply the same 
principle to our own times. The creeds of our 
fathers have changed and we live in a different 
atmosphere. He went on to affirm that Chris- 
tianity in no sense consists in or depends upon a 
creed. " Christianity has no relations whatso- 
ever with opinion; but it is a life." This thought 
was elaborated and illustrated with great ability. 
The preacher presented an important truth 
that is now generally received; but we felt he 
went too far in divorcing Christianity from 
creed. There is no necessary antagonism be- 
tween creed and life, as he seemed to imply, but 
they are vitally related. Creed is a part of life 
and not something aloof from and hostile to it. 
Yet, barring this extreme statement, it was a 
masterly sermon, and Mr. Campbell is a great 
preacher. He held his audience in silent, deep 
suspense, and evidently carried them with him. 
We sat beside a member of his church, who 
said he was holding the congregation and grow- 
ing in power, and that there had been but slight 
disaffection on account of Mr. Campbell's theo- 
logical and socialistic views. We got a much 
better impression of Mr. Campbell's ability and 
earnestness from his preaching than we had ob- 



64 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

tained from his books; and it is to be hoped that 
one so richly gifted with spiritual power may find 
his way back nearer to our historic faith. 



WESTMINSTER CHAPEL 

On a Sabbath evening we went to hear Dr. 
Campbell Morgan in his church, which is of the 
Congregational body, and is known as the West- 
minster Chapel, We found it crowded to the 
doors. It is a very large church, with two gal- 
leries running around the auditorium, and must 
seat at least three thousand. The preacher was 
tall and slender, black-robed, as all English 
preachers are, with a long, narrow face, and a 
voice of great compass and power. His prayer 
was long, and the sermon extended to fifty min- 
utes, although it was probably shorter than usual, 
as it was to be followed with a communion serv- 
ice. The preacher's subject was " Jesus as Our 
Ideal," and, after an introduction, was presented 
under the four heads of the spirituality, the sub- 
missiveness, the sympathy, and the strength of 
Jesus. Viewed from a homiletic standpoint the 
sermon was faulty. It did not naturally grow 
out of the text, which plainly suggested other lines 
of thought and was mostly forgotten by both 
preacher and audience; and it was loose and ver- 



SOME LONDON CHURCHES 55 

bose in construction. But viewed from the prac- 
tical standpoint it was tremendously effective. 
The preacher was vivid in his descriptions, strik- 
ing in his illustrations, and intense and dramatic 
in his delivery. He gripped his great audience in 
the start and held it to the end. Best of all, he 
preached Jesus Christ, and pressed Him upon 
men as their Lord and Saviour. We missed in 
Westminster Chapel the music of Westminster 
Abbey and the charm of Mr. Campbell's poetic 
genius, but we came away from that sei-vice sat- 
isfied with something deeper and better. 

FAREW^ELL TO ENGLAND 

Space will not permit an account of our visit 
to the House of Parliament, a most imposing 
building, where we passed through the chamber of 
the House of Lords, and the vastly more im- 
portant chamber of the House of Commons, the 
place where English history has been made, where 
great voices have spoken, and whence have sprung 
our political roots; and we must also pass many 
other things that interested us in England. Just 
as we were leaving the country it was having its 
periodical " naval scandal," and there had been 
some attempt to get up a scare over alleged Ger- 
man spies, who turned out to be Rudyard Kip- 



56 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

ling and a few friends who were looking over 
some property in western England ! The English 
newspapers are hardly the equal of ours in enter- 
prise, especially in telegraphic service and foreign 
news, but they are not hysterical, indulge in no 
screaming headlines, and it is a point of honor 
with them to tell the truth. There appears, how- 
ever, to be a lack of that sense of humor which 
is the saving salt of our political and social life. 
Emerson said of England that " it is the best of 
nations," and we suspect that this judgment still 
stands. We have been impressed with its solid- 
ity — all its towns and cities are better built than 
ours — its self-possession, its deep historic roots, 
its democratic spirit, and its vigorous life and 
strength. We Americans ought to be proud of old 
England; she at least made us, or mothered us, 
and that is part of her glory and of ours. 



V 
IN HOLLAND AND ON THE RHINE 

A DISTRESSFUL night in crossing the 
Enghsh Channel in a Httle boat that 
- bobbed about hke an eggshell on the 
choppy sea brought us to Flushing, in Holland, 
whence we proceeded by train to The Hague, 
the capital of the country. The two dis- 
tinctive features of the Dutch landscape were at 
once conspicuous — dykes and windmills. The 
dykes are embankments cast up around the shore 
to keep the sea out, the land of about half the 
country lying below the level of the sea. They 
are only sandbanks a few feet high, and as storms 
send waves beating against them and rolling over 
them, they are constantly watched and kept in 
repair. These dykes have played a great part in 
the history of the country, as in the Spanish wars 
the Dutch let the waters in to drive the Spaniards 
out. Dykes also crisscross the whole country, and 
everywhere there are canals lying at different 
levels, the main arteries running into the sea and 
being used for boats, so that one may see ships 
sailing right through the land. 

57 



68 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

The main problem of some countries is to get 
water, but the main problem of Holland is to get 
rid of it. All the fields are bordered with ditches 
that lie full of water, and when it rains the fields 
are flooded. This surplus water must all be 
pumped into the higher canals, so that it may be 
carried to the sea. The Dutchman has water to 
sell, give away, or burn, for he must get rid of it 
some way, or drown. Yet in spite of its abun- 
dance it appears that it cannot satisfy his thirst, 
and he is much given to the use of " bier " (mark 
the ominous spelling of the word). Water, how- 
ever, does one great thing for Holland : it is a 
perpetual irrigation which keeps the fields a vivid 
green, makes all vegetation grow luxuriantly, and 
produces remarkable crops. Dutch farming sur- 
passes even English farming in intensive culti- 
vation and heavy harvests. We saw men and 
women — for women work like men in Holland, 
and seemed as strong as horses — harvesting the 
dense crops of hay and wheat and gathering 
beets, which are raised by the acre for sugar. 

The abundance of water gives rise to the second 
distinctive feature of the Dutch landscape — the 
windmill. This is an octagonal tower surmounted 
with four great arms, or vanes, twenty or more 
feet long, which swing around lazily, but with 
tremendous power in even a light wind. These mills 



HOLLAND AND THE RHINE 59 

dot the level land in every direction, and at one 
view we counted twenty. Some of them grind 
grain or drive saws for cutting lumber, but most 
of them are engaged in the everlasting business of 
pumping water from lower to higher levels. We 
visited one of the windmills, and found it a very 
primitive piece of machinery. The great arms 
turned an axle that was geared with wooden cog- 
wheels to a gang of six upright saws in the mill 
below. With the aid of a little German and much 
gesticulation we got the owner to try to set the 
cumbrous thing in motion, but after turning the 
top of the tower so that the vanes faced the 
scarcely-perceptible breeze, he declared there was 
" nicht vindt," and so we could not " see the 
wheels go round." The fact, however, that the 
wheel would drive a gang of six saws through a 
pine log showed the surprising power of the crude 
machine, and suggested that the atmosphere is a 
vast reservoir of energy that we have scarcely 
tapped. 

Another peculiar feature of Dutch life is the 
queer headgear worn by the women. This con- 
sists of bangles, sometimes of silver, but nearly 
always of gold, either pinned to a white cap of 
lace so that they hang at the temples or above 
the eyes, or fastened on a band of solid silver or 
gold running around the back of the head. They 



60 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

are made in different styles, according as they 
are worn by women from different rural districts 
(they are seldom seen in the cities), and in some 
cases they project like horns or assume other 
fearsome shapes. We thought them anything but 
becoming, and compared them with the fantastic 
headdress of savage African women. Yet as 
these things cost upwards of a hundred dollars, 
and are " the style," the Dutch women doubtless 
think them handsome. The Dutch peasants com- 
monly wear wooden shoes, and as they go clatter- 
ing along in these clumsy things and in coarse 
short dresses, they present a ludicrous appearance. 
But they were dressed according to their own cus- 
tom and taste, and doubtless equally wondered 
and laughed at our strange clothes, 

THE HAGUE AND AMSTERDAM 

The Hague is a city of 230,000 people, with 
fine streets and residences. We visited the two 
royal palaces and were shown through the rooms 
containing many fine paintings and other works 
of art. The palace on the edge of the city in a 
beautiful grove was the place of meeting of the 
first International Peace Conference in 1899, 
which held its sessions in a large room which is 
remarkable for its paintings, all by disciples of 



HOLLAND AND THE RHINE 61 

Rubens. Queen Wilhelmina only occasionally 
visits this palace, but resides in the palace in the 
city, although she spends there only three or four 
months in the year. All over Europe royalty is 
a costly burden in the number of palaces that must 
be kept up for the reigning family. There is an 
art gallery in The Hague with many good pic- 
tures, and several famous ones, especially the 
well-known " School of Anatomy," by Rem- 
brandt, a wonderful piece of portraiture, which 
after nearly three hundred years holds its splen- 
did coloring undimmed. 

Amsterdam, with 600,000 population, is the 
commercial metropolis of Holland. Its main 
streets are mostly canals, so that it is a kind of 
Venice, and it has many narrow and dirty streets 
in which the old buildings lean out at the top and 
threaten to fall on the passers-by. We visited an 
old village on an island out in the Zuider Zee, 
where we saw Dutch life in its primitive simplic- 
ity. The art gallery in Amsterdam also has one 
famous painting by Rembrandt, the " Night- 
watch," besides a number of others by the same 
painter, in its large collection, which is the best 
in Holland. 

Amsterdam is the center of the diamond-cut- 
ting industry, and we were shown through the 
largest establishment of the kind in the world. 



62 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

The processes by which the rough stones are spUt 
and then cut and pohshed, were exhibited and ex- 
plained to us. The diamonds in the rough looked 
like pebbles or stones that one would not stop to 
pick up in the street or on the shore; but the 
finished stones gleamed and sparkled with cor- 
uscating fire as they lay before us in a glittering 
mass. Polishing, or educating, them brings out 
their hidden beauty. The best cutters earn about 
twenty-five dollars a week, which does not seem 
large wages for such highly skilled work. There 
are some great names associated with Amsterdam. 
Rembrandt, one of the greatest of painters, 
wrought and died here, and Spinoza, whose Dutch' 
brain dreamed out a great system of philosophy, 
for a time lived here and made his living grind- 
ing spectacle lenses. 

On the way from Flushing to Amsterdam we 
passed through Dordrecht, where the Synod of 
Dort met in 1618, an important event in the his- 
tory of the Reformed churches, and Rotterdam, 
another large commercial city. Holland is about 
one-third the size of Pennsylvania, with about 
the same population. It is a small country, al- 
ways threatened by the sea, but the Dutch are 
a brave and patient people, who have written 
some glorious pages of history. They are provin- 
cial and somewhat dull, deficient in grace and 




CATIIKDUAL OF COLOGNK 



HOLLAND AND THE RHINE 63 

polish, but they are of genuine worth and have 
enriched the world in commerce, letters, and art. 



COLOGNE 

A ride of six hours on an express train brought 
us from Amsterdam to Cologne, crossing the Ger- 
man border and passing through a great fuss at 
the German customs station. The central at- 
traction of Cologne, with its 400,000 people, is 
its famous Cathedral, which is one of the great 
magnets of the world. One gets a view of it as 
he enters on the railway, and it looms up over the 
city with impressive effect. This finest piece of 
Gothic architecture in the world was begun in 
1248, and it took nearly a hundred years to build 
the choir. Work proceeded slowly until the open- 
ing of the sixteenth century, when it was sus- 
pended for three hundred years. During this 
time the unfinished building fell into decay, and 
pine trees were growing in the top of one of the 
towers and the other was only a heap of stone. 
Work on the Cathedral was resumed in 1823, and 
it was finally completed in 1880. 

The huge building is 511 feet long, 281 feet 
wide in the transepts, the height of the groined 
ceiling is 145 feet above the floor, and the twin 
towers are 511 feet high, the highest in Eu- 



64 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

rope. Viewed on the outside the Cathedral 
looks like a mountain of stone, all richly 
carved. The front presents five tiers of arches 
rising one above another, the two towers ter- 
minating in spires, all of stone. Viewed on 
the inside, the spectacle is one of surpassing 
magnificence and solemn splendor. The stone 
pillars forming the aisles rise into pointed arches, 
and finally spread out in an elaborately-groined 
roof. The windows are richly colored, and are 
glorious visions. There are eight chapels around 
the chancel, but there are few tombs, and the 
Cathedral is not a mausoleum like Westminster 
Abbey; compared with Westminster, however, 
the Cologne Cathedral, of course, excels it in size 
and grandeur, yet we felt that the Abbey has a 
richness of beauty and a tender, ineffable glory 
that are not quite equaled by the Cathedral. Some 
of this difference may be due to the fact that much 
of the Cathedral is so modern as to be new, 
whereas the Abbey is soaked and saturated with 
the historic spirit. It takes centuries to mellow 
and transfigure a great building. But the Cathe- 
dral of Cologne is easily the grandest Gothic 
church in the world, and is one of the triumphs 
and treasures of the human race. Yet the name 
of the original architect has been lost, and it 
stands as the monument of some unknown genius. 



HOLLAND AND THE RHINE 65 

We climbed the five hundred and eighteen stone 
steps that lead up to the base of the spire, three 
hundred and twenty-five feet above the pave- 
ment, the path winding around over various parts 
of the building, and this not only gave us a fine 
view of the city and the Rhine, but gave us a 
closer view of the flying buttresses and pinnacles 
and hollow, tapering spires, so that we saw the 
building as a vast mountain and forest of stone. 

ON THE RHINE 

A whole day was spent in passing up the Rhine 
on a steamer from Cologne to Bingen ; " fair 
Bingen-on-the-Rhine." The Rhine is about the 
size of the Hudson, and strongly resembles it in 
picturesque scenery. The river winds around 
among green hills and is an ever-changing pano- 
rama. The hills in the upper portion of the river 
become steep and are often bare rock. Yet they 
have been terraced with stone walls, and are 
planted with vineyards or with hop vines, and are 
cultivated and made to yield rich crops with al- 
most infinite labor and patience. The river also 
swarms with big freight steamers and barges, 
and does an immense business in trade, which we 
were told is a development of recent years, show- 
ing the growing prosperity of Germany. 



66 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

The great feature of the Rliine, however, are 
the castles which hne its shores, especially in the 
upper part of its course. These castles date from 
the tenth century downwards, all of them being 
ancient. They are generally located on high, 
steep summits, and some of them are perched on 
lofty and apparently inaccessible crags. A few 
are at lower levels, and one stands in the middle 
of the river. Most of them are ruins, but some 
of them are still occupied. Their battlemented 
walls and towers stand out against the green hills 
and blue sky like sharp etchings, and give pic- 
turesque beauty to the scene. Of course they 
were built for purposes of defense and ofifense, 
and were scenes of siege, robbery, murder, and 
every kind of oppression and crime. Many tra- 
ditions and legends weave their weird tales around 
them. They are relics of a rude age, and it is 
well that they have fallen into disuse. Yet a fas- 
cination of romance and glory still clings to 
them, and men do well to preserve their moss- 
covered ruins, and not let their story pass into 
oblivion. 

The whole Rhine Valley is stamped with the 
footprints of history. Caesar crossed it at one 
point, and Emperor William I at another, and 
some notable event happened at almost every mile 
of its course. Many nations have fought over it, 



HOLLAND AND THE RHINE 67 

and it has been the theater of great events from 
the dawn of history. This historic spell that lies 
upon it and impregnates its atmosphere deepens 
its interest. A rare pleasure and one of the most 
delightful experiences of our tour was the day 
spent on the castled and storied Rhine. 



VI 

IN GERMANY 

TWELVE hours on fast express trains 
brought us from Bingen-on-the-Rhine 
to Berlin. We stopped two hours at 
Frankfort-on-the-Main, where we lool<:ed at the 
house in which Goethe was born. On the way 
from Frankfort to Berlin we passed through 
Eisenach, where Luther went to school, and 
saw nearby the tower of the Wartburg Castle, 
in which he was kept hidden by his friends when 
his life was in danger; through Erfurt, in which 
he became a monk, and Wittenberg, where he 
nailed on the church door his famous thesis that 
shook the papal grasp off Germany and created 
Protestantism; and also through Weimar, where 
Goethe lived fifty-six years and where he and 
Schiller sleep side by side. 

This journey and other journeys through Ger- 
many gave us a view of this country. The har- 
vests were being gathered and they were very 
heavy. The land is cultivated so as to utilize 
every foot of ground, and the timothy and wheat 

68 



IN GERMANY 69 

stood in dense masses. The fields of grain were 
small, but the yield was large. We were sur- 
prised at the extent of forestation in Germany, 
which appeared to exceed that of our own coun- 
try. There were large areas of pine forests in 
which the tall, slender trees stood thick in regular 
rows, showing they had been planted. Drainage 
ditches ran through the forests, and the forest 
floor was kept clean and neat. We learned the 
trees are culled out for lumber and fuel, and 
also large amounts of pine are used for festal 
decorations. The government exercises careful 
supervision over the forestation of the country, 
and trees can be cut only in accordance with law. 
Germany in controlling her forests is exercising 
that conservation of natural resources which is 
beginning to concern us, and which we must at- 
tend to if we are not to turn our country into a 
barren waste. 

In conversation with several well-informed 
Germans, we learned that Germany is generally 
prosperous, and has been but slightly affected by 
the industrial depression that has so seriously 
affected America, and, in some degree, England. 
The country has developed its agriculture, and 
especially its manufacturing industries, wonder- 
fully during the reign of the present Kaiser, and 
is one of the most prosperous countries of Europe. 



70 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

The strenuous and masterful William II, between 
whom and our own Roosevelt there is such evi- 
dent affinity, has undoubtedly awakened Ger- 
many out of its lethargy, and infused into the 
whole empire some of his own vim and vigor. 
All of the Germans with whom we have talked 
spoke in the highest terms of the Emperor, and 
were proud of his ability and his achievements in 
strengthening and developing the empire. We 
asked one intelligent gentleman if the Germans 
thought the Emperor talked too much and some- 
what rashly, and he said they thought he had 
done so in his earlier years, but had now gained 
experience, and was wiser; and when asked if 
there is any danger of the Kaiser's plunging the 
country into war, he thought not, and declared 
the Kaiser is a man of peace, though admitting 
the country was near to war with France during 
the Moroccan affair. 



BERLIN 

We arrived in Berlin near midnight, and were 
driven to our hotel through brilliantly-lighted 
streets and down its famous Unter den Linden. 
The city now has two and a half million people, 
is the third city of Europe, and growing rapidly. 
Its streets are wide, with solid blocks of stone 



IN GERMANY 71 

buildings, interspersed with beautiful plazas and 
parks, and it more closely resembles New York 
than any city we have yet visited. A drive around 
the capital showed us something of its magni- 
tude and splendor. Everywhere are seen statues 
of kaisers and great generals and statesmen, 
and many are the monuments commemorating 
victories, especially the victory over France in 
1 87 1, the crushing defeat that paid off old scores 
against that country and settled up the account 
with Napoleon Bonaparte for trampling Germany 
under his feet. Soldiers are everywhere in evi- 
dence in Germany, and the gleam and flash of 
their brilliant uniforms and polished helmets are 
seen in all crowds and on all occasions. Yet the 
"mailed fist" of the Kaiser was no more felt 
by us than is the President's " big stick " in our 
own country, and we suspect the Germans are 
about as little burdened and bound by their gov- 
ernment as we are by ours. People seemed to 
go about their business and to be as free under 
the Kaiser as under a president. 

We got only an outside view of the gilded- 
domed house of parliament, and of the Kaiser's 
city palace, but we went sixteen miles out to 
Potsdam, where are several royal palaces, and 
where the Emperor lives in the summer, though 
he was absent in Norway at the time of our visit. 



72 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

We were shown through the Old Palace, where 
Frederick the Great lived, and also through an- 
other palace, the Sans Souci, built by Frederick 
the Great, and in which he died, only seeing at 
a distance the New Palace, in which Emperor 
William II now lives. These palaces are rich in 
fine paintings and other works of art, and we 
looked with interest and some awe on many of the 
personal belongings of the great Frederick. The 
bodyguard of the German Emperor have their bar- 
racks at Potsdam, and we closely observed a com- 
pany of them as they marched by. They were 
picked men, and gave us an impression of the ter- 
rible efficiency as a fighting machine of the Ger- 
man army. 

On Sabbath, July 26, we attended morning 
service in the Berlin cathedral. The Lutheran 
Church, of course, is the State Church, and the 
Emperor has a private gallery in the cathedral, 
or Dom, which stands across the street from his 
seven-hundred-roomed palace. The building is 
a large cruciform structure, surmounted with a 
great dome. Within, it has a main floor under 
the dome, and galleries in the octagonal sides of 
the auditorium, the whole seating about twenty- 
five hundred people. It is plain in its decoration, 
and little resembles a cathedral, and is not spe- 
cially beautiful. The church was crowded and 



IN GERMANY 73 

many stood in the aisles during the service, a 
good proportion of them being men. There was 
only an organ, and no choir, and the people sang 
the hymns to slow choral music. But even the 
congregational singing lacked volume and spirit, 
and was not what we expected of Germans, We 
could perceive that the preacher was a good 
speaker, and his earnest sermon held the great 
audience in quiet, eager attention to the end. 
As interpreted to us by a friend, the sermon was 
a strongly evangelical appeal to have Christ 
within and live His gospel in our lives. A giant 
statue of Luther stood over the pulpit, and looked 
down upon the service with uplifted hand, as if 
pronouncing his benediction upon it. 

The forenoon of the Sabbath was passed 
quietly, but in the afternoon the Continental Sun- 
day set in. There were practically no evening 
services, and the rest of the day was given up to 
recreation and pleasure. Unter den Linden, the 
great central artery of the city, swarmed with 
carriages and automobiles, and people crowded 
the sidewalks and occupied the benches under 
the trees. The throng was composed of all classes 
and was orderly and quiet. In the evening the 
beer halls and gardens were in full blast, though 
stores remained closed, and crowds of men and 
women sat around tables, sipping beer and wine 



74 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

and listening to the music of fine bands. In one 
such garden probably five thousand people were 
thus assembled. No intoxication or disorder was 
observed, but pleasure was the order of the hour. 
The scene made a painful impression on us, and 
it is to be earnestly hoped that the Continental 
Sunday will not be pemiitted to invade our own 
country. Multitudes of Germans are beer-soaked 
and wine-saturated, and this fact is stamped upon 
their heavy, dull faces. Americans generally ex- 
cite surprise by their declining the wine list in 
hotels and restaurants — a declination that the 
waiters sometimes receive with an ill-concealed 
look or grunt of displeasure — and on this account 
they are unwelcome in some hotels. 

A long conversation on a train with an intelli- 
gent German gave a view of the religious condi- 
tion of the country. He was a rationalist who 
had evidently rejected all supernaturalism in re- 
ligion, but he affirmed his faith in Christianity 
as the best religion, said he attended church and 
even favored foreign missions. When asked 
what was his view of the Bible and of Christ, he 
simply said, " You have read Harnack," and in- 
dicated he agreed with him. He said the German 
Protestant pastors generally imbibe rationalistic 
views at the universities and teach them in their 
pulpits. When asked if these views were under- 



IN GERMANY 75 

mining Christianity in the country, he answered 
with an emphatic negative, and said that Ger- 
many is as reHgious as ever. The test of such 
views, however, comes in the second and third 
generations. Traditional faith has great momen- 
tum and will keep up its movement a long while, 
but its energy must be renewed or it will become 
spent. 

DRESDEN 

One hundred and eight miles by rail south of 
Berlin brought us to Dresden, the capital of Sax- 
ony, with 600,000 people. It is an art center, 
noted for its culture and refinement, and many 
English and Americans reside here for pur- 
poses of rest and study. It is a city beautiful, 
and its life is marked by leisure and quiet. Peo- 
ple walk its streets with unhurrying feet and 
serene faces, and there is a noticeable absence of 
the feverish haste and heat that turn so many 
cities into boiling caldrons. The great attraction 
of the city is the Royal Picture Gallery, that is 
the largest and finest collection of paintings in 
Europe north of Italy. Its art treasures were 
gathered in the eighteenth century by the Electors 
of Saxony, and the collection now contains twen- 
ty-four hundred paintings, many of them of 
world fame. The finest painting in the gallery, 



76 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

and probably the finest in the world, is Raphael's 
Sistine Madonna, which was painted by the artist 
at the request of the Pope, in 15 15, for a monas- 
tery in Italy. It was bought for the Dresden 
gallery in 1753, for $45,000, and it is said that 
Italy has since offered $200,000 for its return; 
but it is now a treasure beyond price. The Virgin 
mother, holding her Child, stands in a parted cur- 
tain behind which are angels, as though she had 
stepped out of heaven. The depth and mystery 
of expression in her face and in the face of the 
Child are wonderful. For nearly four hundred 
years the generations have come and gone and 
gazed at this picture, and marveled at the vision. 
Among other famous paintings in the gallery are 
Correggio's " Holy Night," " Jesus in the Tem- 
ple," by Hoffman, who lives in Dresden, at the 
age of eighty-four, and is ranked as the greatest 
living artist, Munkacsy's " Christ on the Cross," 
and hundreds of others by Titian, Murillo, Ru- 
bens, Rembrandt, and other great names in the 
world of art. 

Room after room of the large building is filled 
with these paintings, many of which are now be- 
yond price. Biblical scenes abound, but all scenes, 
from tragedy to comedy, from humble life to 
great personages and events, are depicted. These 
artists have caught the joys and the sorrows, the 



IN GERMANY 77 

hopes and fears, the triumphs and the tragedies 
of the world, and fixed them upon these canvases 
in imperishable colors. Many of them have held 
the gaze of the world for centuries. They abide 
while the generations go, so that it might be 
thought that men are the shadows and they are 
the realities. They bring out into sharp relief and 
vivid color the inner meaning of life. They are 
great educators, and minister to the culture and 
enrichment, as well as to the pleasure, of the 
world. Yet one soon begins to tire as he walks 
through these interminable galleries, through all 
this riot of color. After a few hours one reaches 
the saturation point, and feels that he can hold 
no more, and that paint is oozing out of his pores 
and dripping from his fingers. All pictures then 
begin to blend into one blur of color, and one 
must retire and return another day. A short 
visit only discloses treasures which it would take 
weeks and months to study. 

In all of these famous galleries will be seen 
men and women who are copying the great mas- 
ters. They set their easels up before a master- 
piece and patiently toil away for weeks in repro- 
ducing it. These are often men and women of 
talent, who can copy well, but they do not have 
the genius to originate. In some instances the 
copy closely resembles the original in mechanical 



78 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

features, and it would be difficult to find a line 
wrong, and yet in almost every instance the copy 
lacks the subtle soul of the original. It was 
noticeable that the copies were nearly always 
stronger in color than the original, even after 
some allowance was made for the mellowing in- 
fluence of time. Where the master restrained 
his brush to quiet tones, the disciple dipped his 
brush in more vivid colors and produced a louder 
picture. It is nearly always so; the disciple lacks 
the restraint of the master and outdoes him by 
pushing his characteristic virtues into faults. 

Near by the Royal Gallery in the palace is a 
museum known as the Green Vault, where is a 
famous collection of jewels, swords, clocks, 
curios, regalia, and other treasures gathered by 
the Electors of Saxony. There are diamonds and 
other precious stones in blazing heaps, and many 
exquisite and wonderful products of the jeweler's 
art. It is said to be the greatest collection of 
jewels in the world, and the estimated value of 
the museum and the gallery runs up into hundreds 
of millions of dollars. A half-day was spent in 
this museum, and then we felt we had again 
reached the point of saturation, and did not care 
to see another curio, though it were a marvelous 
clock, an amazing piece of Chinese carving in 
ivory, or a big ruby presented by Peter the 



IN GERMANY 79 

Great. We were also shown through the rooms 
containing the gold and silver plate, the china, 
and the linen now used in the palace. But all 
these splendors cannot comfort the heart of the 
lonely and broken-hearted king of Saxony, for 
a few years ago his wife, whom he adored, eloped 
with the French tutor of her children, and is now 
a disgraced exile in Italy. These great royal 
palaces contain many a skeleton. 

NUREMBERG AND MUNICH 

Southern Germany is old Germany, where one 
gets down closest to the bed-rock and primitive 
life of the country. Nuremberg is the quaint- 
est city in Europe. We had thought of it as 
a town of 20,000 or 30,000 people, and were 
surprised to find it a city of 300,000. Many 
of these old German cities are growing by 
leaps and bounds. Nuremberg is mossy with 
age, and takes us back into the Middle Ages. 
Its queer steep-roofed and red-tiled houses 
are a distinctive feature. Often there are five 
or six stories, with quaint dormer windows, in 
the roof, and we learned that these are mostly 
used for the storage of fuel. One of the at- 
tractions of the city is the ancient castle, which 
was the seat of the Hohenzollerns, from whom 



80 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

the present German Emperor is descended. In 
the tower of the castle is a collection of instru- 
ments of torture used in the " good old times." 
It tried one's nerves to look on the rack that had 
pulled men to pieces, on the " iron lady " which 
opened in front and then embraced and crushed 
her victim with sharp spikes, and on the sword 
that had cut off hundreds of heads. We live in 
an age of " sweeter manners, purer laws." 

The last city we visited in Germany was Mu- 
nich, a place of half a million people, another art 
center which is becoming a modern manufactur- 
ing city. It has two great galleries, the Old Gal- 
lery, containing works by the old masters, and 
the New Gallery, containing only modern works. 
We made a visit to each gallery, and saw many 
beautiful and some wonderful pictures, but so 
short a visit was like wading through a flood of 
color. Yet some impressions were caught that 
memory will long keep. 



VII 
IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 

FROM Germany we passed into Austria, 
making our first stop at Innsbruck, a 
beautiful city of fifty thousand, lying in 
the Austrian Alps. The mountains tower up 
around the city from eight to twelve thousand 
feet high, with snow lying in the gullies around 
their tops. We did a little mountain climbing, 
and found that a taste of it whetted the appetite 
for more, and enabled us to understand the fas- 
cination or the mountain heights that lure so 
many to daring and some to death. Few things 
are so deceptive as mountain distances. A mass 
of glittering snow that did not seem more than 
an hour away up the mountain, after two and 
a half hours' climbing still tantalized us, and 
was probably another two hours away. 

We passed on through the Austrian Tyrol, 
spending a night at Bozen, and then over the 
Brenner Pass into Italy. The mountains were 
piled in confusion all around us, some of them 
sheer precipices of variously-colored rock, and 

81 



82 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

some of them capped with snow, and the scenery 
at times was magnificent. As soon as we crossed 
the divide and began to descend into Italy we 
felt the balmier breath of the south and were 
presently under a warm Italian sun. 

German Austria does not differ in language 
and differs little in appearance from Germany, 
though the men were noticeably smaller. There 
was a smart sprinkle of gay ly-uni formed sol- 
diers in the cities and along the railways, and the 
query arose whether Austria, poor and burdened, 
needs so many. When one saw gold-laced offi- 
cers walking along the road and women working 
in the fields close by, one wondered whether there 
was not something wrong in such an economic 
and social system. 

IN ITALY 

The Alps rapidly break down into the plains 
of Italy, and we rode over a level floor through a 
rich country from Verona to Venice. There 
was more Indian corn than we had seen else- 
where in Europe, but comparatively little grain 
of any kind. The whole plain was one great 
fruit orchard, with miles of vineyards, and peach, 
plum, apricot, olive, and other fruit trees. The 
grapes hung in dense clusters on the vines, and 
the trees were loaded with fruit. Northern Italy 



IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 83 

is a rich garden, and one could soon see why it has 
been so eagerly coveted and stubbornly fought 
for by so many peoples. One also soon struck 
historic ground in Italy. Verona has a place in 
history, and the remains of its Roman walls could 
be seen from the train, and in passing through 
Padua one looked with peculiar interest on the 
buildings of the university from which such men 
as Savonarola, Tasso, Ariosto, Plutarch, and 
Galileo were graduated. 

VENICE 

The level plain became spotted with bits of salt 
water, a city loomed up out at sea, the train ran 
across a long stone bridge of 222 arches, and we 
stepped out into Venice, the most unique city in 
the world. Here in the fifth century the fiery 
Huns from the north drove the fleeing inhabi- 
tants from the shore to the islands out in the 
Adriatic, and the humble huts they built grew into 
this strange city that was once one of the most 
powerful republics of Europe, and is now full of 
the departed glories of the past. The city is built 
on 117 islands, and has 150 canals, crossed by 
378 bridges, and has 180,000 inhabitants. Every 
one is familiar with pictures and paintings of 
the city and has read descriptions of it, and it 
fully met and satisfied our expectations. The 



84 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

railroad landed us on the Grand Canal, which 
winds through the city in the shape of the let- 
ter S, and is intersected with an intricate net- 
work of smaller canals. The Grand Canal is up- 
wards of loo feet wide and 12 or 15 feet deep, 
and the smaller canals are often very narrow and 
tortuous. 

We were cjuickly placed in gondolas, which 
carry four passengers each, and the gondolier pro- 
pelled and steered the strange craft with a single 
oar over a winding course across the city to our 
hotel. The long, slender boat, with its sharp 
prow and iron beak standing high out of the wa- 
ter, glides smoothly and gracefully along, pick- 
ing and pushing its way through the throng of 
gondolas and other boats, while the gondoliers 
hail and warn one another and keep up a jab- 
bering and jawing that threatens war, but never 
comes to blows. The stone steps of the houses 
and palaces run right down into the water, though 
there are also many streets and narrow alleys, 
and one can go over most of the city on dry 
land. The gondoliers are not as musical as they 
are popularly supposed to be. Few of them did 
any singing, but, in the evening, boats containing 
" opera companies " would anchor out in the 
Grand Canal and attract a swarm of gondolas 
by their good singing, passing the hat at frequent 



IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 85 

intervals for a small fee. There are now also 
many electric and steam boats of larger size on 
the canals, and even ocean liners come into the 
Grand Canal. Five or six Italian warships lay 
at the entrance of the Grand Canal, and each 
morning sent a salute booming over the city. 

Though there are no street cars, automobiles, 
and other vehicles to add to the noise of the city, 
yet Venice is noisy enough, especially with bells. 
There are a hundred churches in it, and most of 
them have belfries in which bells are frequently 
rung, marking the hours, festal days, services, 
and so on. Sleep was rendered impossible for us 
on the first morning after our arrival, for in the 
early hours there was a tremendous commotion 
among the belfries, and we realized the sonorous 
significance of Edgar Allan Poe's "bells, bells, 
bells," though we re-bell-ed against them. The 
Venetians and the Italians generally are noisy 
people, and with all the clatter of their tongues, 
the cries and wrangling of the gondoliers, the 
striking of the hours and ringing of bells, Venice 
is not at all as silent as its sea, but holds its own 
in noise with other cities. 

The heart of Venice is the Piazza, or Square, 
of St. Mark, around which are its famous Ca- 
thedral, Royal Palace, Ducal Palace, and other 
buildings that are relics of the splendid days of 



86 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

the city. The Cathedral of St. Mark is as unique 
as Venice itself. Its architecture is not Gothic, 
but Greek, though the style is mixed and there 
are Gothic additions. It is a cruciform, sur- 
mounted by a central dome and a dome on each 
arm of the cross, making five in all. Over the 
five portals are pictures that at first look like 
gaudy paintings, but which turn out to be mosaics 
inlaid with minute blocks of colored glass, the 
background being gold enameled with glass. On 
entering one finds practically the whole interior 
above the lower walls covered with this same 
mosaic work, there being more than an acre of it 
in all. Many Biblical and historical scenes are 
portrayed in elaborate pictures, all patiently and 
artistically inlaid, the most delicate shades being 
produced without the touch of a brush. The 
floors, lower walls, pillars, and pulpits are con- 
structed of fine colored marbles. These marbles 
and many of the other treasures of the building 
were gathered from almost every quarter of the 
globe by the Venetian merchants and soldiers, 
especially by the Crusaders returning from the 
East. The Cathedral itself is one vast mosaic 
inlaid with precious metals and stones, a museum 
of art treasures of the mediaeval world. 

The interior, consisting of the rather short 
nave and transept, surmounted by the five domes, 



IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 87 

lacks the lofty grandeur of the Gothic cathedral, 
but the general effect of its rich marbles and gold 
background inlaid with bright pictures Is mag- 
nificent. It struck us as strange, however, that its 
windows are all plain white glass, and stained 
glass would certainly pour a flood of splendor 
over its glory. As the great structure stands on 
yielding ground, its floor is uneven, and the 
whole building is more or less twisted, and yet 
it shows no crack, and will doubtless stand for 
centuries. The Campanile, or bell tower, of the 
Cathedral, which stood nearby, three hundred 
and twenty feet high, fell in 1902, and is now 
being rebuilt, and has risen about one hundred 
feet. The broken pavement around it shows the 
effect of that tremendous downfall. 

The Ducal Palace stands by the Cathedral, and 
is one of the most beautiful buildings in Europe. 
In it Venetian architecture and art flowered out 
into their full-blown blossom. Here the Doges, 
or elected rulers of Venice, resided in their power 
and pomp, and this palace remains as the husk of 
their departed glory. It is enriched throughout 
with fine paintings oji its walls and ceilings, its 
exterior pillars and porticoes are carved marble, 
and all the world was ransacked to furnish and 
adorn it. The famous " Bridge of Sighs " con- 
nects the palace with the prison, and we went 



88 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

down into the dark and narrow stone dungeons 
in which prisoners of note were confined, and 
stood on the spot where they were executed, and 
saw where their blood ran through the floor into 
the sea. 

The way in which art treasures in former days 
were looted is illustrated by the case of the four 
famous bronze horses that stand over the portal 
of the Cathedral. They originally belonged in 
Rome, Constantine carried them to Constanti- 
nople, Venice stole them from Constantinople, 
Napoleon, when he was robbing Italy of art 
treasures right and left, carried them off to 
Paris, and in 1815 they were restored to Venice. 
But was not Pekin looted by Europeans and 
Americans ? 

FLORENCE 

Our next stop was Florence, the city of flow- 
ers, where we spent two delightful days. It is a 
city of 220,000 people, and is beautiful for sit- 
uation, lying on the Arno River, surrounded by a 
rim of mountains. The first thing we saw, on 
looking out of our hotel the morning after our 
arrival, was a marble tablet on the house across 
the street, containing a Latin inscription to the 
effect that Americans Vespucius was born and 
lived in that " domo," and thus we found our- 



IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 89 

selves on a spot of peculiar interest to Americans. 
Little did that Italian boy think as he played in 
and around that house that he would give his 
name to a far new world, from which travelers 
would come to visit the city and house of his 
birth. 

This experience was a fitting introduction to 
Florence, for it is a city of memories, crowded 
with the great names and events and works of the 
past. It has passed through revolution after rev- 
olution and been again and again drenched in 
blood. The Republic of Florence filled a large 
place in mediaeval history, and the powerful fam- 
ily of the Medici acquired immortal fame and 
infamy. Here Savonarola played his part as a 
pioneer of human liberty, Galileo made his great 
discoveries, and paid the penalty of his intellec- 
tual originality, Machiavelli developed and ex- 
ercised his peculiar craft as a statesman; and 
such men of supreme genius as Dante in poetry, 
Michelangelo in sculpture and architecture and 
painting, Raphael in painting, and Rossini in 
music lived and wrought, besides a host of emi- 
nent, but less famous, artists. As a result of this 
history Florence has immense and priceless col- 
lections of art treasures, and is probably the 
greatest art center in the world. 

Of the many art galleries in the city we went 



90 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

through the three chief ones, and saw famous 
masterpieces of painting by Raphael, Rubens, 
Rembrandt, and others, and of sculpture by 
Michelangelo, the greatest artistic genius Flor- 
ence, or the world, has produced since Phidias. 
His giant statue of David instantly impressed one 
with its noble dignity and strength. Of the 
ninety-four churches in Florence, many of them 
celebrated for their art, we visited four or five. 
The church of Santa Croce, or Holy Cross, con- 
tains the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Ma- 
chiavelli, Rossini, and many other famous men, 
and is the Westminster Abbey of Florence. The 
tomb of Michelangelo, by his pupils, is very fine, 
with its mourning figures in marble, but the tomb 
of Rossini, the composer of '' William Tell " and 
" Stabat Mater," by a young sculptor still living 
in Florence, we thought the most fitting and beau- 
tiful piece of monumental work we had ever seen. 
The Domo, or Cathedral, of Florence has an 
imposing and highly-ornamented exterior of 
colored marbles, but is severely plain within. 
While we were in it a monk was delivering a 
sermon in earnest tones to an audience of about 
a hundred people in one of the transepts. Two 
of the churches we visited had been frescoed by 
Florentine artists, and the pictures were after- 
wards covered with whitewash or plaster, and 



IN AUSTRIA AND ITALY 91 

thus remained hidden for centuries. The white- 
wash is now being dissolved off by chemical 
means, and thus the beautiful work is being 
restored. 

The Museum of St. Mark was formerly the 
monastery in which Savonarola lived, and he 
preached in the church connected with it. We 
visited his cell, and saw the few relics of the 
great Dominican monk and reformer that are 
now carefully preserved. We also looked up into 
the window in the tower of the palace of the 
Medici, where he was confined as a prisoner, and 
stood with mournful interest on the spot, now 
marked with a brass plate, where he was burned. 
One of the most costly and splendid tombs the 
world contains is the Chapel of the Medici, where 
many of the members of this famous family lie 
buried. It cost three and a half million dollars, 
its interior is rich mosaic work, and it contains 
some of Michelangelo's greatest productions. 
We also saw the house in which Dante dwelt, the 
villa in which Michelangelo lived, the observa- 
tory in which Galileo made his astronomical 
discoveries, and the castle in which he was im- 
prisoned, the house in which Robert Browning 
lived and wrote, and the grave of his wife, 
Elizabeth Barrett Browning, in the English 
cemetery. 



92 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

As one walks through these streets and palaces 
and galleries and churches and tombs through 
and around which the human tides have beat for 
centuries, so rich and splendid in all that wealth 
and art can produce, and thinks how the great 
and powerful rulers that once inhabited them 
and the men of genius that reared and adorned 
them have alike vanished into the unseen, he 
realizes with peculiar pathos how frail is man, 
and how fleeting is his glory. But these men of 
Florence have left behind them fabrics of poetry 
and painting, architecture, sculpture, and song 
that the world will not willingly let perish. 



VIII 
ROME 

" A ND so we came to Rome," wrote Paul, 
/\ who felt the central attraction of this 
-^ -^ great hub of the mighty rim of empire 
that then ran around the world; and the same 
attraction still exerts its mystic power. " All 
roads lead to Rome " is one of the most widely 
spread proverbs of the world, and the Eternal 
City has for a longer period and in a greater 
degree than any other been the center towards 
which all mundane things have gravitated. In 
the days of its imperial power and splendor it 
ruled the world with a ruthless hand, and now 
it is the seat of a spiritual depotism, which, as 
Voltaire said, is " the ghost of the Roman Empire 
sitting on its grave." 

We arrived at midnight of Saturday, August 
8, and were driven to a fine hotel near the center 
of the city. The Tiber runs through it from 
north to south, and we soon got hold of its gen- 
eral plan. To the south of us lay the ruins of the 
Roman Forum and Colosseum, and to the west 

93 



94 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

across the Tiber, was St. Peter's, these being the 
two chief points. There are many modern build- 
ings and wide streets, but most of the streets are 
narrow, and with their buildings are at least 
several centuries old, and ancient Roman ruins 
are interspersed through the city, though the 
Forum is the great center of these remains. 

On Sabbath morning we went to St. Peter's, 
where we witnessed and heard the morning high 
mass. About thirty priests, in white and richly- 
embroidered robes, were engaged in it before one 
of the altars, forming a spectacular service that 
drew around it a crowd of curious observers. The 
music of the choir of men and boys was fine, 
though not equal to that in Westminster Abbey. 
The service, of course, was in Latin, and was a 
long and complicated affair of mumbled Scrip- 
ture and prayers, bowings and genuflections, 
kissing the Bible, elevating the bread and drink- 
ing the wine of the Lord's Supper, scattering in- 
cense, and numerous other rites. We have at- 
tended a number of these masses and, while view- 
ing them with respect, they seemed to us removed 
about as far as possible from the simplicity of the 
Gospel and spiritual worship. 

St. Peter's itself is a grand church. It is a 
building of immense size, being 696 feet long, 
450 feet wide in the transepts, and 151 feet high 



ROME 95 

in the nave. Over the center of the cruciform 
structure rises the beautiful dome, 138 feet in 
diameter, and 403 feet above the floor, the archi- 
tectural triumph and glory of Michelangelo. 
Under the dome stands the high altar, over 
which rises an imposing bronze canopy 95 feet 
high. Around the sides of the church are seven 
altars, and there are numerous magnificent tombs 
of Popes. The great size of the building is illu- 
sive, and one can hardly believe that the letters 
that run around the base of the dome are six 
feet tall, and that the goose-quill pen in the hand 
of one of the mosaic figures near the roof is 
seven feet long. The whole interior is a mass of 
fine colored marbles, marble floors and pillars, 
gilded arches and ceilings, elaborate altars and 
monuments, and mosaic pictures. The effect is 
one of magnificence and splendor unequaled in 
any other cathedral, though it is generally ad- 
mitted that it is overloaded with decorations. 

There is not a seat for the people on its marble 
floor or a pulpit anywhere in it. Masses are 
being said almost continually before its altars, 
lights are burning, and on occasion great spec- 
tacular services are held, but we could not learn 
that the Gospel is preached in it. Near the center 
of the building there is a bronze statue of Peter, 
in a sitting attitude, said to be a work of the fifth 



96 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

century. Devout Roman Catholics kiss the toe 
of the statue, and the metal is worn back into the 
foot by the touch of countless lips. This process 
was going on almost constantly, and gave us a 
view of repulsive Roman superstition. Down 
under the high altar is the alleged tomb of St. 
Peter. We went down into the splendid recep- 
tacle, constructed of fine marble, precious stones, 
mosaics, and gold, and looked into the place, for 
the usual fee — for money will open practically 
every door in a Roman Catholic cathedral — but 
saw nothing that would lend any shade of color 
to the legend that Peter is buried there, or was 
ever in Rome at all. St. Peter's alone has cost 
fifty millions of dollars, and generations of archi- 
tects and artists have lavished their genius upon 
it. We went out of the magnificent church feel- 
ing that where art and ritual have risen highest 
there spiritual religion and true worship have 
fallen to a low level, and, as in the days of Christ, 
the gorgeous temple appears to be an empty husk. 
St. Peter's is the center, or core, of an immense 
establishment. In front of it is a great piazza, al- 
most surrounded by huge colonnades, and in the 
center stands a lofty Egyptian obelisk that once 
stood nearby in the Vatican Circus of Caligula, 
but now stands surmounted by a cross, as a sym- 
bol of the triumph of Christianity over pagan- 



ROME 97 

ism. Around St. Peter's at the piazza is the vast 
Vatican Palace, one of the largest in the world, 
said to contain ten thousand rooms, large and 
small. Here the Pope has his private apartments, 
and never leaves the Palace and Church, posing 
as " the prisoner of the Vatican." The Vatican 
is granted, by the Italian Government, the rights 
of exterritoriality, and has its own Swiss 
guards, dressed in the gaudiest military uniforms 
in Europe, and presenting a truly ridiculous ap- 
pearance, with their pretense of power. To this 
tiny space and this spectacular bit of sham have 
shrunk the once vast proportions and real might 
of the papal power. 

The greater part of the Vatican contains art 
collections and halls and chapels that are open to 
the public, and we spent parts of three days in 
going through some of the most important of 
these. The Sistine Chapel is interesting because 
here the Pope worships, and here also the new 
Pope is elected when the office becomes vacant. 
The Chapel is not large, but is noted for its paint- 
ings. Michelangelo's famous " Last Judgment " 
fills the end of the Chapel over the altar, and his 
" Creation " fills the ceiling, and these are his 
masterpieces in painting. They are much dark- 
ened and discolored by smoke and the damp plas- 
ter, but are still full of beauty and power. Paint- 



98 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

ings fill many rooms, and here again our eyes 
were feasted and surfeited. One painting stands 
out in eminent distinction, Raphael's glorious 
" Transfiguration," familiarly known by copies 
and prints all over the world. It was the last 
work of his hand, stood beside his body as it lay 
in state, and was carried at the head of the funeral 
procession. Napoleon took it to Paris, whence 
it was returned. The lower part of the double 
picture was completed by Raphael's disciples, but 
the Transfiguration proper is by the master's own 
hand, and is a marvel and mystery of form and 
color and expression. 

There are said to be three hundred and eighty- 
six Roman Catholic churches in Rome, many of 
them large and magnificent structures. Of those 
we visited, the next to St. Peter's in splendor is 
St. Paul's, an immense church that stands outside 
the walls of the city over the traditional spot of 
Paul's tomb. The church itself belongs to the 
Italian government as a national monument, and 
contains many rare and costly contributions to its 
construction sent from all over the world. Some 
think it not less rich, and in better taste, than St. 
Peter's, and it must certainly be counted one of 
the most beautiful churches in the world. The 
Pantheon, the most perfectly preserved of the 
ancient buildings of Rome, in which heathen gods 




aii('Ui:la\<;i:i,()"s ".mosks" 



ROME 99 

were worshiped, is now a Christian church, and 
among its tombs is that of Raphael. The Church 
of St. John, another large and richly-adorned 
church, is distinguished by the fact that it is the 
Pope's own church, or the church of which he is 
bishop, and is thus superior to St. Peter's itself. 
This is due to the fact that the Popes formerly 
resided in the palace connected with it, and 
officiated at its altar. 

Near St. John's is a small church which is en- 
tered up a flight of twenty-eight steps reported to 
be from the house of Pilate, and no one is allowed 
to climb them except on his knees. We saw a 
number of devotees thus slowly ascending them, 
and recalled the fact that it was while thus ascend- 
ing these very stairs that Martin Luther was seized 
with the conviction that such works were of no 
avail, and that moment the germ of the Reforma- 
tion was born. In the church known as St. Peter 
in Chains is a chain which it is claimed is the one 
that bound Peter in prison, but the real treasure 
of the church is Michelangelo's " Moses," his 
masterpiece in sculpture, and one of the grandest 
pieces of sculpture ever executed. The massive 
figure, with its attitude of dignity and power, 
noble head and limbs on which the muscles and 
the very arteries stand out as in life, is profoundly 
impressive, and we can well believe the tradition 



100 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

that when he had finished it the master sculptor 
struck it with his mallet and said, " Now speak." 



ROMAN RUINS 

The chief interest of the tourist in Rome is in 
the ruins of the ancient city that for so long a 
time ruled the world, and the fall of which was 
the greatest convulsion of history. These ruins 
are widely scattered over the area which was cov- 
ered by ancient Rome with its 2,000,000 of inhab- 
itants, but the most important ones are found in 
and around the Forum, which was the civic, po- 
litical, and religious center of the city. The 
Forum is a space something like half a mile long 
by a quarter of a mile wide, and is bounded by 
hills, so that it lies in a valley that originally was 
a swamp. Through this space ran the Via Sacra, 
or Sacred Way, along which the triumphal pro- 
cessions passed, and on either side of this way the 
Forum was crowded with basilicas, temples, and 
other public buildings, constructed of the finest 
Parian marble, and richly adorned with carving 
and other decorations. Over the Sacred Way, 
also, were the triumphal arches commemorating 
the triumphs of victorious emperors, of which 
only three are standing. Of these the most in- 
teresting is the Arch of Titus, commemorating 



ROME 101 

his overthrow of Jerusalem. On the mside of 
the Arch is a carving in reUef showing the cap- 
tive Jews bearing their seven-branched candle- 
stick and table of showbread, the Jewish cast 
of countenance being distinct, and the whole fig- 
ure setting its emphatic and pathetic historic seal 
to the truth of the prophecy uttered by Jesus. 

All of these beautiful and precious buildings 
were destroyed by time and fire and riot and 
revolution, but especially by the hordes of bar- 
barians that poured in from the north in succes- 
sive waves, and overwhelmed Rome. The Forum 
itself was covered to the depth of many feet with 
debris, and was at length forgotten. But in mod- 
ern times excavation has laid most of it bare, 
and disclosed the pitiful remains of its former 
glory. Only a few marble pillars still stand, their 
fine fluted shafts and rich Corinthian capitals giv- 
ing some hint of their former grace and beauty. 
Scattered around are great blocks of marble, and 
the whole place is littered with pieces of carved 
marble, and to this wreck and ruin did all that 
ancient splendor come. 

On the west side of the Forum is the Palatine 
Hill, where the Caesars built their palaces. These 
are now heaps of brick, though many walls are 
still standing and some bits of the mosaic floors 
remain. In one of these rooms, the mosaic floor 



102 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

on which he probably stood still being in good 
preservation, Paul stood when he appeared before 
Caesar. We were also shown the room in which 
tradition says he was confined before his trial, and 
the Mamertine prison, in which he was immured 
before his execution. 

South of the Forum stands the Colosseum, the 
greatest of all the Roman ruins, and one of the best 
preserved, though two-thirds of it are gone. We 
visited it twice by day, but the mighty ruin seemed 
most impressive when we viewed it by moonlight. 
It then seemed to loom up in vaster proportions, 
and was pervaded by a solemn silence and un- 
earthly presence, as though the ghosts of the past 
were hiding among its broken walls and arches. 
This greatest theater ever erected was an ellipse 
615 feet long by 510 feet wide, and its outer wall 
was 157 feet high. It would seat 50,000 spec- 
tators, some estimates running up to 100,000. The 
outer walls are complete around nearly one-half 
of it, and the inner walls stand all the way around, 
thus giving one an impression of its immense 
size, and enabling one to have some conception of 
it when filled with a vast multitude of spectators 
shouting themselves hoarse over a mortal combat 
of gladiators or the tearing of Christians to pieces 
by wild beasts. The dens in which the ferocious 
animals were kept may still be seen, and on the 



ROME 103 

very earth beneath one's feet many Christians 
poured out their blood in testimony of their faith. 
But this same Colosseum that was the most char- 
acteristic expression of the savage cruelty of 
pagan Rome, has been consecrated as a monument 
to the Christian martyrs that perished in it; and 
in its arena the International Sunday School Con- 
vention recently held a service of praise to the 
same Christ whose name was made the object of 
such derision and hatred in its walls. 

The Colosseum and all the buildings of ancient 
Rome have been looted by vandals and architects 
and Popes, and their materials used in the con- 
struction of churches and other buildings. St. 
Peter's itself is a splendid pile of loot and some- 
times a whole ancient building, that would now 
be counted a priceless treasure, was destroyed for 
the sake of a single pillar or block of marble. 

THE CATACOMBS 

The last place in Rome we visited were the 
Catacombs, narrow underground passages and 
chambers hewn out of the rock, of which about one 
thousand miles have been explored. We went in 
at one point, each one carrying a candle, and 
came out at another, and saw many of the niches 
and vaults in which bodies were buried, several 



104 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

of them still containing bones, and saw the sym- 
bols of Christian faith and hope. Here Chris- 
tians hid in times of persecution, and here they 
also buried their dead. Christianity was thus in 
its early days driven into holes and dens in the 
earth, but it has long been out in the day, and 
the cross we find rudely cut on the walls of these 
dark caverns is now carved in marble on the walls 
of the Colosseum, and surmounts all the remain- 
ing temples and pillars of pagan Rome. 



IX 
FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 

NAPLES is the largest city in Italy, and 
has about 550,000 inhabitants. It is a 
hot, dirty, and noisy place, with little 
in its ancient history or present condition of 
interest. Its bay, far-famed for its beauty, is 
a semicircle of blue water, studded with islands, 
and under a clear Italian sky presents a view of 
rich color and rare charm. In the city is a mu- 
seum which contains some valuable ancient sculp- 
ture, but its chief interest consists in the great 
mass of materials brought from Pompeii. Sculp- 
tures, paintings, jewelry, utensils, tools, and a 
great variety of other articles exhumed from the 
buried city, have been placed in this museum, and 
thus one can study the arts and life of Pompeii 
before visiting it. 

Our chief objective was Pompeii, which is 
reached by an electric line eighteen miles south 
of Naples. Vesuvius, that poured its hot stones 
and cinders upon Pompeii and buried it in a 
grave which has only in modern times been dis- 

105 



106 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

covered and opened, stands several miles south of 
Naples, and back from the bay, and in passing to 
Pompeii it was always at about the same distance 
and in full view. It has grown quiescent since 
the terrible eruption of 1906, and while we were 
there it stood silent and smokeless, giving no 
sign of its hidden fires and explosive might. But 
its top is all shattered and scorched and scarred, 
and it looks the great cinder heap that it is. The 
electric railway runs through a stream of lava of 
the last eruption, and the great river of rock, that 
looks like a gorge of tossed and tumbled black 
ice, gives one some conception of the eruptive 
power and fury of the fateful monster that 
can vomit forth such far-flung floods of molten 
stone and immense clouds of ashes, burying wide 
tracts of fertile country and smothering distant 
cities. Yet this same lava crumbles down into 
rich soil that produces some of the finest fruits 
and flowers in the world, and Vesuvius is girdled 
around its base and garlanded far up its sides 
with vineyards, orchards, and flower-beds, 

A few minutes' walk from the station takes one 
right into the excavated portions of Pompeii. It 
was a wealthy suburb of Naples of about thirty 
thousand inhabitants, where many rich and pow- 
erful Romans had their residences or seaside 
villas, and the eruption, in 79 A. D., of Vesuvius, 



FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 107 

that was then not known to be a sleeping vol- 
cano, buried it under pumice stone and ashes. 
The greater part of its inhabitants escaped, as 
comparatively few human remains have been 
found, but they fled, leaving their houses and 
many of their valuables, which have been brought 
to light by the excavator's spade. 

On entering the town one finds himself in a 
deserted city of stone, all the streets being paved 
with solid blocks of granite, and the houses being 
complete, except that the roofs are gone, having 
been crushed in by the weight of ashes. The 
streets are worn into grooves or ruts by the wheels 
of carriages, and at the street crossings are large 
stones on which the people stepped over. The 
houses have vestibule, reception rooms, open 
court, bedrooms, and kitchen on the first floor, 
the slaves occupying quarters on the second floor. 
In many instances, fine mosaic floors remain in- 
tact, and there are many frescoes on the walls in 
good condition, some of the colors remaining 
remarkably bright. A painter was seen sitting 
before one of these frescoes copying it, just as 
painters were seen copying the paintings in the 
galleries. The court of justice, temples, and two 
theaters are excavated, and show the public life 
of the city. A small museum in the town con- 
tains the plaster shapes of thirteen bodies found 



108 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

in the ruins, the plaster of Paris being poured 
into every cavity in the ashes left by a body, 
thus preserving the form. There are also loaves 
of bread found in ovens, charred black, and many 
other articles. At points on the streets there are 
drinking fountains with basins hewn of stone to 
catch the water. The rim of this basin would be 
worn down into a smooth depression by the drink- 
ers putting their hands on it while they stooped 
to drink from the water flowing out of the spout. 
The great depth of these hollows worn in hard 
stone showed that such basins had been in use for 
hundreds of years. 

It required little imagination to see the streets 
and public places and private houses of Pompeii 
alive with people, busy with all the affairs and 
pleasures of life. For centuries it grew and 
flourished, and was a scene of fashion and lux- 
ury and revelry, and all the while Vesuvius was 
in full view, giving no sign of its dreadful power 
and purpose, and casting no shadow on its pleas- 
ures. But one August morning the clock of des- 
tiny struck, and that mountain blotted out that 
town, as a hand extinguishes a candle, and it 
lay buried and then forgotten for more than a 
thousand years. But the hand on the clock of 
destiny marks the purposes of the Eternal, and 
makes no mistakes. 



FROM POMPETI TO GENEVA 109 

Pompeii was our farthest point, and when we 
turned back from it we set our faces homeward, 
and the fact gave us a pecuHar thrill of pleasure. 
It was a long flight from Pompeii and Rome to 
Milan, but it gave us a good view of Italy along 
a different route than the one by which we came 
south. Southern Italy is a less fertile country 
than northern Italy, the soil being poor and the 
harvests scanty compared with the rich northern 
plain. Evidences of poverty are also more con- 
spicuous in the south than in the north, and 
begging is a prevalent and persistent business. 
Italy is awakening to new life and prosperity, but 
it seems to have too many soldiers, and it is 
heavily burdened with taxation. We were sur- 
prised to find a customs officer at every railway 
station, and all goods passing from one station 
to another are subject to duty. A peasant cannot 
carry a chicken or a basket of eggs from one vil- 
lage to another without paying a tax. This is 
taxation with a vengeance, and it is a great bur- 
den upon business. 

A few miles north of Rome we struck the 
Mediterranean, and it burst upon us as a beauti- 
ful sight. Such deep-blue water we never had 
seen, and it rolled in on the beach and boiled 
around the rocks like liquid lapis lazuli. We also 
saw a fine Italian sunset and it fulfilled the de- 



110 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

scriptions commonly given it. Tlie Italian sky- 
is a singularly transparent blue, with a peculiar 
lustre, and the sunset was a pearly glow of light, 
deep and rich and tender, suggesting a far-away 
golden shore. The railway along the Mediter- 
ranean is a remarkable piece of engineering, it 
being almost a continual tunnel for many miles, 
emerging from the rock at intervals for a brief 
glimpse of the sea. In passing Pisa we had a fine 
view of the famous Leaning Tower, and we 
stopped for a night at Genoa, a large commercial 
city, with a worthy monument to Christopher 
Columbus, its most illustrious son. The next 
day we passed on to Milan, the second largest city 
of Italy, with over a half-million inhabitants. 



MILAN 

The chief attraction of this city is its famous 
Cathedral, in and around which we lingered for 
two days. It is the second cathedral in the world 
in size, St. Peter's being first, and it is said that it 
will hold forty thousand people. Its exterior lacks 
the impressive height of the Cathedral of Co- 
logne, as it has no tower, but it breaks into 
a multitude of pinnacles, and is richly carved 
and is ornamented with two thousand statues. 
The whole massive pile is marble, discolored with 



FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 111 

age, but showing pure white in such parts as have 
been recently replaced. Within, the church is a 
forest of marble pillars which exfoliate at the 
top into intricate and delicate tracery, forming 
the most beautiful ceiling we have seen in any 
cathedral. The windows are darkly stained, 
toning the light down to dimness, but produc- 
ing a very rich effect. There are two choir lofts 
and organs facing each other in front of the 
high altar, and around the sides of the church 
are a number of tombs and monuments. 

We were fortunate in witnessing two special 
services. One on Saturday afternoon was in 
honor of the assumption of the Virgin Mary, and 
a large number of priests participated in it. The 
two choirs of men and boys sang antiphonal 
chants, responding to each other, and the music 
rolled through the long aisles and lofty arches 
with grand effect. The other special service was 
on Sabbath morning, when the aged cardinal of 
Milan officiated, and there was a procession of 
fifty priests, headed by the tottering old man sup- 
ported by attendants, around the Cathedral, and 
then there was an elaborate service before the 
high altar amidst clouds of incense. A large 
body of people were present, but even they were 
few on the immense floor of the church. 

We climbed to the top of the marble roof, and 



112 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

then on up to the top of the central pinnacle, and 
thus gained an impressive view, not only of the 
city and country, but especially of the Cathedral 
itself as an immense mountain and wilderness 
of stone. These great cathedrals differ as one 
star differeth from another star in glory, and 
each has its own peculiar majesty or beauty. In 
the front rank of these great piles of architecture 
and art stands the Cathedral of Milan in its mag- 
nitude, its ornate exterior, and in its great aisles 
and glorious fretted roof. It is a tremendous 
sermon in marble and mosaic and richly-colored 
glass, and produces a deep religious impression 
on the reverent soul. 



THROUGH SWITZERLAND 

From Milan we started north, and soon struck 
the Alps, that mighty wall of upheaved rock, 
broken and tossed and carved into countless 
shapes, that divides northern from southern 
Europe, and has played so great a part in deter- 
mining the course of history. They threw their 
majestic skyline across our path and seemed to 
block all further progress. But our train sped 
on, climbed higher, rushed through tunnels, 
crossed chasms deep down in which mountain 
streams boiled and foamed, and thus mounted 



FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 113 

towards the summit. Twice it plunged right into 
the face of the mountain, made a complete circle 
in a spiral tunnel, and emerged at a point higher 
up. At length we came to the St. Gothard tun- 
nel, nine and a half miles long, piercing the back- 
bone of the Alps, and ran through it with an 
electric engine in fifteen minutes. The descent 
was equally precipitous and thrilling, at times 
skirting dizzy heights, and then plunging into 
darkness. 

In the evening we reached Lucerne, on the 
beautiful lake of the same name, where we 
stopped for the night, and where the next morn- 
ing we viewed the huge stone lion modeled by 
Thorwaldsen and cut in solid rock in the moun- 
tain in commemoration of the Swiss guards who 
perished in defense of Louis XVI, in the French 
Revolution. It is remarkable how much suffer- 
ing is expressed in that great stone face. Lu- 
cerne and all the Swiss lakes are cups of blue oi 
green water, rimmed in with mountains, and are 
rarely picturesque and beautiful. 

We spent the next day in a journey across 
Lake Lucerne in a steamer, over the mountains 
on a cogwheel railway, through magnificent scen- 
ery, and across Lake Brienz to Interlaken, a 
celebrated Swiss summer resort. The next 
morning a glorious vision burst upon us. There 



114 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

stood the Jungfrau, one of the most magnificent 
mountains of Europe, robed in the dazzling splen- 
dor of eternal snow. It appeared a white spec- 
ter, and almost seemed a spirit. It was hard to 
believe it was eighteen miles away when it looked 
so near. We had been over the Rockies, but had 
never seen so majestic a vision, and it held us with 
a strange fascination. We rode out to the Wet- 
terhorn, another snowy peak, and saw the glacier 
at its foot. It is a great river of ice that comes 
down the steep mountain side, and at the bottom 
opens a cavernous mouth, out of which flows a 
large- stream of water. We went up on the 
glacier, saw the great boulders on its back, and 
looked down into some of its crevices. An arti- 
ficial tunnel has been cut a hundred feet into the 
solid ice, and we went into it. The walls of the 
cavern were a deep blue, and it looked like a fairy 
palace of pure amethyst. 

Mountains are piled up around Interlaken in 
giant heaps of tilted and twisted strata, which 
glaciers have ground down and storms have 
weathered into fantastic forms. Few places have 
so much scenic magnificence, and it is one of 
nature's vast amphitheaters for the display of 
her masterpieces. God has written on the planet 
these gigantic raised letters which spell His sig- 
nature, and declare His power and glory. Their 



FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 115 

lonely heights and awful solitudes, their incon- 
ceivable age and apparent unchangeableness, their 
incomparable grandeur and beauty dwarf into 
insignificance all human architecture and art. 
Yet man mounts them, puts his foot on their 
loftiest peaks, pierces through them, flings his 
iron roads over them, harnesses their streams to 
his wagons, reduces their proud summits to his 
own service, analyzes them, weighs them, reads 
their history, explains their origin, forecasts their 
destiny, consigns them to final burial in the bot- 
tom of the sea, and is greater than they. 

GENEVA 

Geneva is a fine city of 100,000 people, at the 
southern end of Lake Geneva, out of which the 
River Rhone rushes in a swift stream of green 
water. The chief interest of Geneva to Presby- 
terians is its association with John Calvin, as the 
scene of his principal labors. The place where 
his house stood on the Rue Calvin is now occu- 
pied by a building marked with an inscription to 
the effect that the original house in which Calvin 
lived was torn down and the materials used in 
the present building. Nearby is the Cathedral of 
St. Peter, in which he preached. It dates from 
the tenth century, and is a beautiful Romanesque 



116 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

and Gothic church. It contains the chair in 
which Calvin sat in the Cathedral, the only relic 
we saw of the great Reformer. Just across the 
street is a small church which bears this inscrip- 
tion: "John Knox, Calvinistic Scotch Reformer, 
elected pastor of the English colony and citizen 
of Geneva, preached in this church from 1555 to 
1557." The two great Johns of Reformed and 
Presbyterian history thus labored together. We 
visited the College of Geneva, which was founded 
by Calvin in 1559. Two of the buildings date 
from Calvin's day, and several others are modern. 
It is now supported by the State, and has twenty- 
eight professors and nearly one thousand stu- 
dents. Calvin was the founder of our modern 
popular educational system, and the impress of 
his hand on Swiss education is seen in the fact 
that the Canton of Geneva now devotes one-third 
of its whole annual budget to the maintenance 
of its public schools. This is better than sup- 
porting a large body of soldiers. 

One sad act in the life of Calvin is also com- 
memorated in Geneva in a unique manner. Near 
the Rhone, on the spot where Michael Servetus 
was burned for heresy, stands a block of granite, 
which was erected in 1903, on the three hundred 
and fiftieth anniversary of the tragedy, and which 
bears an inscription informing the world that 







IXTEUKUt OF ST. I'KTEKS CATIIKDUAL, (IKXKVA 



FROM POMPEII TO GENEVA 117 

the " Respectful and Grateful Sons of Calvin, 
Our Great Reformer, But Condemning an Error 
Which Was That of His Age, Have Erected this 
Expiatory Monument." While it is technically- 
true that " Calvin did not burn Servetus," yet he 
brought him to trial for heresy, and secured the 
death sentence against him, but endeavored to 
have that sentence mitigated from death by burn- 
ing, to death by decapitation. Calvin, too, great 
as he was, and priceless as is the heritage he left 
the world, was yet the child of his age, and his 
*' respectful and grateful sons " only honor them- 
selves by acknowledging this fact. 

In a small cemetery in the heart of the city we 
stood by the grave of Calvin. Under a pine tree 
is a small block of marble, bearing the two letters, 
J. C. There is a doubt as to this being his 
grave, but it would seem that the city where he 
did so great a work should have some monument 
or memorial of his name. It makes little differ- 
ence, however, where his body lies, or whether 
any material shaft bears his name. John Calvin 
plowed his name deep into the centuries, and 
sowed seeds of liberty, education, and high 
thoughts of God that have enriched all our mod- 
ern life, and are still blooming on every shore. 



X 

IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 

THE giant wrinkles of the Alps rapidly 
smoothed themselves down into the 
level plains of France. A ride across 
it gave us a good view of this country. The 
same thorough cultivation of the soil seen 
throughout Europe was evident here, and France 
is said to be the most intensively farmed country 
on the Continent. The landscape presented a 
fine prospect, with its checkered fields of grass 
and grain, in which men and women were busy 
gathering the rich harvests. Towns and villages 
were numerous, and the substantial stone or brick 
houses and clean streets presented a tidy appear- 
ance. The proverbial French industry and thrift 
were everywhere evident, and one could under- 
stand how this people can have such financial re- 
sources as they have displayed in critical times. 

PARIS 

More than in any other country the capital is 
the country, Paris is France. This huge clot of 
118 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 119 

three millions of human beings is the ganglionic 
center and brain of France, or the heart that 
sucks into itself the blood of France, and sends 
its life out throbbing to all its borders, and makes 
its pulse felt throughout the world. Our train 
rolled into the city at midnight, and we rode 
through historic streets and places to our hotel 
near its center. The Seine cuts the city in two, 
the northern half being the more important, both 
in its historic associations and its commercial 
and civic life. Our impression of the city did 
not fully meet expectations. While it is a great 
and magnificent city, yet it is not as imposing 
in its buildings and as splendid in its streets as 
we had supposed, and does not surpass London 
or equal New York in these respects. Its points 
of interest, however, are numerous and fascinat- 
ing, and meet one on every side. Only a square 
or two to the east of our hotel stood the Vendome 
Column, an imitation of Trajan's Column, in 
Rome, on which are represented Napoleon's 
achievements in his wars against Austria, his 
own pathetic figure, wearing a crown, standing 
on its top. A short distance to the west of our 
hotel was the Place de la Concorde, in the center 
of which stands an Egyptian obelisk, which 
marks the spot where stood the guillotine in the 
days of the Revolution and Terror. Here the 



120 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

heads of Louis XVI and the beautiful but un- 
happy Marie Antoinette were sheared off, and 
this started a flow of blood that filled the world 
with horror. It is said ten thousand heads were 
cut off at this place, and probably no other spot of 
ground on the earth has been so deeply saturated 
with blood. The mark of the Revolution is 
everywhere on the city, and lends it much of its 
fascination. 

On Sabbath morning we attended services in 
two of the most noted and beautiful churches of 
Paris. Notre Dame is one of the most historic, 
as it is one of the grandest, cathedrals in the 
world. It is the usual cruciform structure, with 
pillared aisles and groined roof. The portals 
at the front are noble arches decorated with stat- 
ues and carving, and the two square towers are 
massive in their simplicity. The most striking 
feature of the interior are the rose windows in 
the nave and transepts, which are subdued and 
rich, yet splendid in color. The service we at- 
tended was the usual high mass. The choir was 
unimpressive, but the great organ rolled and 
crashed through the arches in grand strains. 

One could not sit in this cathedral without 
thinking of its historic associations. In the days 
of the Revolution it was turned into a stable, 
and the chapels became stalls for horses. Oil 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 121 

was poured on its altar and the attempt was made 
to burn it. A red-headed woman of doubtful 
character was installed in the place of the image 
of the Virgin Mother, and adored as the goddess 
of reason. These shameful abuses were swept 
away along with other excesses of the Revolu- 
tion by the strong hand of Napoleon, who re- 
stored Roman Catholic worship in Notre Dame. 
Just in front of the choir stood Napoleon, sur- 
rounded by members of his family and his gen- 
erals, when he was crowned, clapping the crown 
with his own hands on his head. The Cathedral 
and all the Roman Catholic churches are now 
in the custody of the Government, which origi- 
nally built them, but the use of them is freely 
accorded to the churches, and worship goes on 
as before. 

From Notre Dame we went to the Church of 
the Madeleine, which is the aristocratic church of 
Paris, where we found a large congregation. 
The church is peculiar in that it has no windows 
in its walls, but is lighted by four circular sky- 
lights in its roof. Its interior is constructed of 
fine marble, its altar is a splendid piece of marble 
carving, and the whole effect of the church is very 
beautiful. Standing on the great steps of this 
church and looking south along the Rue Royale 
one sees in a line the Madeleine, the Place de la 



122 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

Concorde, and the dome of the InvaHdes, in 
which is the tomb of Napoleon, and thus he takes 
in the French Revolution from its beginning to 
its end. It was in front of the Madeleine that 
the Revolution began, for here the women met 
and raised the cry for bread that started the mob 
for the palace of the king at Versailles. The 
Place de la Concorde was the bloody center of 
the Revolution, and Napoleon was its end. 

We went out to Versailles and visited the royal 
palace, which was the scene of so much of the 
royal glory and of so many of the royal tragedies 
of France. We walked up along the same street, 
through the same gate, as did the mob on that 
fatal October day in 1789, when it stormed the 
palace, a hundred thousand strong, and forced the 
king and queen to go to Paris, there to meet at 
last their unhappy fate. We stood in the balcony 
where Marie Antoinette appeared and showed her 
children to the mob in the vain hope of appeasing 
it. The marble palace itself is said to be the 
largest and most splendid in the world. An after- 
noon was spent in looking through its more nota- 
ble halls and galleries, where remain the pictures, 
furniture, and other trappings of the French 
kings, from the days of Louis XIV, the " grand 
monarch," who started the palace, down to our 
own time. Room after room is filled with paint- 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 123 

ings of scenes in French history, mostly of war. 
The French national spirit glories in battle and 
blood, and spreads the lurid colors of war over 
all its galleries. It is the irony of history that the 
palace at Versailles, which was the consecrated 
embodiment of French pride, was occupied by the 
German army during the siege of Paris, and here 
in one of its great halls William I was crowned 
as the German emperor. 

The Tuileries and the Louvre together consti- 
tuted the city residence of the French kings, the 
Tuileries now being occupied by government offi- 
cers, and the Louvre being a museum of art, 
painting, sculpture, and jewelry. There are lit- 
erally miles of galleries, and one can only glance 
through some of the more important rooms. In 
sculpture there is a collection of Greek and Ro- 
man statuary, including the original Venus de 
Milo, one of the finest pieces ever shaped by a 
Greek chisel, and a model for all the world. In 
painting there are many works from the hands 
of Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens, and other mas- 
ters. The jewels of French royalty are a glit- 
tering collection, and here one may see the gold 
crown, blazing with big diamonds, which Napo- 
leon put on his own head when he crowned him- 
self in Notre Dame. The Palais du Luxem- 
bourg, built as a royal residence for Maria de' 



124 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

Medici, is now occupied by the French Senate, 
its museum containing a collection of modern 
French paintings. The building occupied by the 
Chamber of Deputies is at a distance from the 
Senate, and is not an imposing structure. The 
French Government thus has no national capitol 
such as is found in nearly all capital cities. 

Another building of great interest in Paris is 
the Pantheon. Originally built as a church, the 
beautiful building has passed through a series 
of vicissitudes, sometimes being devoted to wor- 
ship and at other times to secular uses. It is 
now a place of burial for famous men, and in its 
vaults lie Rousseau, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, and 
Zola, the heroic defender of Dreyfus. Allegori- 
cal paintings embellish its walls, and its great 
dome rises gracefully and majestically over its 
interior. On its wall opposite the entrance, in 
the most conspicuous place, is a highly-colored 
modern painting, representing France capturing 
the flags of all nations — Italian, Austrian, Ger- 
man, Russian, and English ! On questioning our 
French guide as to the good taste of such a pic- 
ture in such a place, he shrugged his shoulders 
and uttered the suggestive word " vanity." Van- 
ity has been a strong strain in French blood and 
history, and it has not yet been wholly eliminated, 
even by the disasters and humiliation of recent 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 125 

times, though France is now more sober and sane 
than in former days. 

Perhaps the greatest single attraction in Paris 
is the tomb of Napoleon, whose body rests in a 
porphyry sarcophagus in a pit under the dome of 
the Invalides, a home for infirm soldiers. Around 
the room are the tombs of brothers and generals 
of Napoleon, but a ring of visitors is nearly al- 
ways standing around the marble balustrade and 
silently gazing down with a sense of wonder and 
awe on that block of polished stone that holds 
the ashes of the man whose tread shook Europe 
and made the boundaries of empires oscillate on 
the map, while he handed out thrones and crowns 
to his relatives as though they were only glit- 
tering baubles. As there is no name inscribed on 
Washington's monument, so no name appears on 
Napoleon's coffin. Some things do not need a 
trumpet or even a name : all the world knows 
what they are and what they mean. But on the 
pavement around the sarcophagus are inlaid the 
names of some of Napoleon's famous battles, as 
follows : Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlitz, 
Jena, Friedland, Wagram, Moscow. It will be 
noted that the name of his most famous battle 
is missing — Waterloo. That splendid tomb is a 
pathetic spectacle, and its central marble block, 
holding his dust, suggests the rock in mid-ocean 



126 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

on which the great Corsican was chained as a 
captive until he wore himself out in bitterness of 
spirit, and found rest in death. 

We were in Paris only five days, hardly time 
enough to do more than see the surface of so vast 
a mass and great a deep of human life and his- 
tory. But we rode or walked through its prin- 
cipal avenues and saw its beautiful parks and 
palaces, and visited the points of historic interest 
that have attracted the gaze of the world. No 
other city of modern times has had and still has 
such a fascination for the world; and its triumphs 
and tragedies, its joys and sorrows, gayety, tears, 
and blood, are vivid points of intense experience 
in the universal drama of life. 



BELGIUM 

Belgium was the eighth and last country we 
visited, spending several days in Brussels and 
Antwerp, which are both cities of several hun- 
dred thousand inhabitants. Brussels is the cap- 
ital. Its chief building is not the capitol, but the 
palace, or court, of justice, which cost ten mil- 
lions of dollars, and is said to be the largest 
single building in the world. It is a tremendous 
pile of stone, and as it far exceeds the needs of the 
Belgian courts, and costs forty thousand dollars a 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 127 

year simply to heat it, it is a white elephant on the 
hands of the city. The Wiertz Gallery contains 
only the works of Antoine Wiertz, a native of 
the city, who died in 1876. He had a streak of 
insanity in him which came out in the weird con- 
ceptions of his pictures, but they are wonderful 
in coloring and expression, and seemed to us the 
most powerful works of art we had anywhere 
seen. 

WATERLOO 

Thirteen miles south of Brussels is the battle- 
field of Waterloo, which we visited. A great 
mound of earth, surmounted by a huge stone lion, 
stands on the field, and is ascended by two hun- 
dred and sixteen steps. Standing on the summit, 
the guide explained to us the position and move- 
ments of the armies in that memorable conflict. 
Within full view were all the points of the battle, 
the roads running east and west and north and 
south along which the armies moved, the two 
houses which were the headquarters respectively 
of Wellington and Napoleon, and the farmhouses 
that were strategic points for which the two 
armies contended. Facing southward we looked 
right down the field over which came Napoleon's 
" Old Guard " in its last charge, and when it 
reeled back in confusion before Wellington's 



128 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

fierce assault, Napoleon knew that his star had 
at last fallen, and fled the field to perish on a rock 
in the Atlantic. The battle was fought in a small 
space, and that night fifty-two thousand men lay 
dead or wounded on the field. Traditions of the 
awful scenes and sufferings of that day and night 
remain among the people of the neighborhood, and 
a museum on the field contains many relics of the 
battle. One gained a vivid sense of this greatest 
battle ever fought in Europe, standing on that 
summit, the battle that stopped the insane, selfish 
ambition of one colossal military genius and re- 
stored Europe to security and peace. 

ANTWERP 

Antwerp, the seaport of Belgium, has a ca- 
thedral of interest, as it contains three of Rubens' 
masterpieces, including his famous " Descent 
from the Cross." Rubens himself lies buried in 
another church in the city. We attended a vesper 
service in the Cathedral the evening before sail- 
ing for home, and heard some very beautiful 
music from its great organ. The rich strains 
rose and fell and streamed and surged through 
the darkened aisles and arches with solemn and 
grand effect. It seemed a fitting conclusion to 
our tour, in which we had seen many of the 
famous cathedrals of the world. 



IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM 129 

The next day at noon we sailed on the Red 
Star Liner Finland, and for nine days the big 
steel ship plowed through foam and spray, and 
the great wide sea, changeful with iridescent col- 
ors, lay around us with its encircling horizon. 
At last we sighted land, and never did the name 
America sound so sweet and the homeland have 
such charms for us as when we again saw its 
shore and set foot on its soil. 



XI 

SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 
OF EUROPE 

WE are well aware that a flying tour 
through Europe is a narrow and su- 
perficial basis on which to frame gen- 
eral judgments. Europeans often amuse us with 
their impressions of America, caught from 
a car window. Yet even rapid observation 
may grasp some broad features of general 
interest, and intercourse with the people of a 
country may give us their own views. Amer- 
icans have the reputation abroad of being the 
most inquisitive of people, who are bent on find- 
ing out all about the country they are in; and 
they are credited with gaining their point. An 
Englishman said to us in London : " You Amer- 
icans come over here and find out more about 
London than we Londoners know ourselves." 
We availed ourselves of this American right of 
inquisitiveness, and conversed with many people 
of various classes and callings, such as porters, 
cabmen, hotel men, merchants, travelers, and pro- 
130 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 131 

fessional men, and thus gained an insight into 
things from their point of view, and learned 
much about European countries from the inside. 
In our tour we passed through eight foreign coun- 
tries, in which we visited forty-two cities and 
traveled about ten thousand miles, and we shall 
endeavor to condense it into some general im- 
pressions. 

ECONOMIC CONDITIONS 

The economic conditions of Europe impressed 
us more favorably than we had expected. There 
was in most countries a general air of prosperity. 
The notion that Europe is sunk in poverty and 
debt is an error. There is evidence enough of 
poverty, especially in Italy, where we saw more 
beggary than in any other country, but the mass 
of the people appeared to live in comfort and 
contentment. Farming, as we have several times 
remarked, is better done in Europe than in Amer- 
ica, the soil being more carefully and intensively 
cultivated, and every foot of field and forest 
being made to yield the utmost. Most physical 
things are better done. The railways are more 
solidly built, and we did not see a wooden bridge 
or a grade crossing in Europe. The railway 
operatives are under better discipline and a rail- 
way accident is comparatively rare. The com- 



132 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

mon roads, also, are built as carefully, and some- 
times as expensively, as railroads, and are im- 
mensely better than ours. Practically all build- 
ings are of brick or stone, and one rarely sees 
even a frame barn, except in Switzerland. By a 
parliamentary law a wooden building may not be 
erected anywhere in the German Empire. As a 
result fire is less frequent and destructive, the 
annual fire losses in Europe being less than one- 
sixth of what they are in America. The cities 
and towns are also better kept, cleaner, and 
neater. The ragged outskirts and dirty back 
streets, littered with rubbish, through which one 
nearly always passes in entering an American 
city, are conspicuously absent in Europe. 

There appear to be less of the speculative ele- 
ment and spirit and less fever and rush in bus- 
iness in Europe than in America. Promoters, 
syndicates, and trusts, so far as we could learn, 
are virtually unknown. Men are quieter in their 
business methods and habits, are satisfied with 
lower profits, and are not money mad, as they 
often seem to be in our own country. As a result, 
panics are much less frequent and severe than 
they are with us. There are labor troubles in 
Europe, notably in France, but they appear to be 
less obtrusive and obstructive than in our 
country. 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 133 

On the whole, the economic condition of 
Europe is probably better, and vastly better, to- 
day than ever before. Although debt and tax- 
ation are heavy, and there are no doubt deep pov- 
erty and much suffering among some classes, yet 
peace and industrial progress have raised pro- 
duction to a higher level and brought compara- 
tive plenty to the masses. While wages are 
lower, living is cheaper than in our country, and 
the economic difference between Europe and 
America, though considerable, is not as great as 
is commonly supposed. Our impression was that 
the well-to-do classes have more comfort in 
Europe than in America, and we would not ex- 
pect them to emigrate from the one country to 
the other, as they seldom do. Nearly all emi- 
grants come to America in the steerage. 

POLITICAL AND SOCIAL CONDITIONS 

Government is very much the same thing in 
Europe as in xA.merica. It does not bulk much 
larger in the public view there than it does here, 
and burdens the people with taxation and restricts 
their liberties scarcely more there than here. 
People move about and attend to their affairs as 
freely and securely under a monarchy as in a 
republic, and business may be as prosperous, and 



134 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

even more steady, under the one than in the other. 
We got the impression that their cities are better 
governed than ours, and there is certainly less 
corruption of every kind in European politics 
than in our own. The government of a people 
generally fits them, and is what suits and serves 
them best. The notion that there is only one 
right type of government, and that ours is the 
best, belongs to the same class of provincial ideas 
as that our denomination is the only true religion. 
One fact, however, was continually impressed 
upon us in Europe: there are too many soldiers 
there. The large army and navy maintained in 
almost every country in Europe are a tremendous 
burden on the people and drain on manhood. Sol- 
diers are everywhere conspicuous in flashing uni- 
form and marching ranks. There seems to be 
something wrong in the economic system under 
which in times of peace soldiers are marching 
along the roads through fields in which women 
are plowing or reaping. We found the military 
system was deprecated by many of the people 
with whom we talked, but in each instance they 
said it was necessary in their country because of 
its existence in other countries. There appears 
to be a growing feeling of popular revulsion 
against these large armies. They are kept up 
mostly by the ruling classes, and the idea is get- 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 135 

ting into the minds of the common people that 
they are as dangerous and wicked as they are 
burdensome. 

One of the strongest forces now working 
against militarism is socialism and the socialistic 
spirit. This appears to be slowly permeating 
all Europe, and it is disseminating ideas of human 
brotherhood and solidarity that are undermining 
the old system of rivalry and war. Socialism, 
which is especially strong in Germany and 
France, may not reconstruct the social order on 
its own lines, but it is a powerful resolvent of 
the old order, and may prepare the way for a 
new. Monarchy is slowly but surely waning, and 
democracy is coming. It is now being freely 
predicted by intelligent observers that there may 
come' in the not distant future a United States 
of Europe, in which existing countries will be 
federated under a representative government. 
The common people are dreaming of such a 
democracy, and thoughtful leaders think it not 
impossible. But it will come, if come it does, not 
so much by revolution as by evolution. 

We were much impressed in our intercourse 
with European people with their courtesy and 
general spirit of good will. Ask anyone, police- 
man, cabman, or passing citizen, a question or for 
a favor, and he would invariably answer oblig- 



136 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

ingly, and would often go with one or put himself 
to some trouble to render a service. People are 
not in such a hurry, and so bent on their own 
affairs over there as they are here, and this con- 
duces to a spirit of general good will and mutual 
helpfulness. The orderliness, sobriety, and gen- 
eral good behavior of the people were also ob- 
served. Outside of Scotland we did not see one 
intoxicated man in Europe, and no street dis- 
turbance of any kind. Yet there is abundant evi- 
dence that intoxicants are a terrible evil, and are 
as great a blight upon Europe as they are upon 
America. 

RELIGIOUS CONDITIONS 

Religion bulks as a large fact in Europe, in 
some ways as a more conspicuous fact than in 
America. The Established churches and great 
cathedrals conduce to this end, and there is also 
much healthy religious life, especially in Prot- 
estant countries. The Anglican Church shows 
great vigor, and evidently has a strong hold on 
the English people. It has awakened to new life, 
and is manifesting deep interest in practical ques- 
tions, especially the problems of the city and of 
poverty and the religious condition of the masses. 
There is probably no abler and more earnest 
preacher of an evangelical gospel in England than 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 137 

Canon Henson, in St. Margaret's, in the heart of 
London. The Nonconformist churches are also 
healthy in spiritual life and fruitful in service. 
We are inclined to think that English Chris- 
tianity is more vigorous and virile than our own, 
and that the Englishman takes his religion more 
seriously than the American. Germany also 
rather surprised us with evidences of religious 
life and work. The great congregation, com- 
posed so largely of men, giving earnest attention, 
we saw worshiping in the Berlin Cathedral, was 
an inspiring sight. The impression commonly 
entertained in this country that higher criticism 
is cutting the heart out of German faith was not 
borne out by what we saw and heard in Ger- 
many, The pastors generally hold to the meth- 
ods and results of what we regard as radical crit- 
icism, but they still preach a saving gospel, and 
are grappling with the religious problems and 
conditions of their day. A German pastor with 
whom we talked assured us of this fact. Even 
a German agnostic, with whom we held a long 
conversation, admitted that the Protestant 
Church of Germany holds to its faith, and is ear- 
nest and friiitful in its work. Yet agnosticism 
is making serious inroads upon German thought, 
and is telling on German Protestantism. 

In Roman Catholic countries, such as Italy and 



138 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

France, formal religion is at low ebb. The great 
cathedrals are still centers of interest, especially 
to tourists, but vital religion has declined. The 
Roman Catholic Church is as strong as ever in 
its hierachy, but it has lost its hold on the people. 
Comparatively few persons attend its services, 
and multitudes of its own children have turned 
against it. We talked with many of these peo- 
ple, and they all said they had no faith in the 
mummeries of the Church, and no use for the 
priests. Some of these lapsed Catholics still 
profess their belief in God and their need of 
religion, but many of them are agnostics with 
no religious faith. In Italy the Catholic Church 
shows its greatest outward splendor, but it is 
little else than a hollow sepulcher, full of the 
dead bones of the past. After seeing Rome we 
could understand the Reformation. No doubt 
there are many sincere, devout Catholics and 
godly priests, but the organization has lost touch 
with the modern world, and is an obsolescent 
institution. 

In France conditions are in some respects still 
worse, and, in others, more hopeful. The Cath- 
olic Church has alienated the French people and 
left them without a religion. While services go 
on in the cathedrals and churches, the French 
people as a mass have no interest in them, and 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 139 

have mostly lapsed into indifference and agnos- 
ticism. A long conversation we had with an able 
French agnostic physician disclosed to us the fact 
that French philosophical agnosticism is not scoff- 
ing infidelity, but is a reverent and eager search 
and waiting for truth. The physician admitted 
that religion is a normal need of man, and that 
absence of faith is an abnormal condition, and 
one dangerous to morals. He also threw the 
blame of the present irreligious condition of 
France on the Roman Catholic Church, which by 
its tyranny and bigotry and superstition has 
alienated the intelligence and conscience of its 
own people. We were deeply impressed with the 
seriousness and reverence as well as with the 
goodness of heart of our agnostic friend, 
and felt that such a man must yet find the 
light. 

The six hundred thousand Protestants of 
France, mostly of Huguenot descent, have intel- 
ligence, education, wealth, and influence out of 
all proportion to their number. Many of them 
retain conservative orthodox views, and are faith- 
ful in maintaining their religious life, but many 
among the educated Protestants are also drifting 
into agnosticism. The chief hope for Italy and 
France is that the human heart, bereft of its 
faith, will reassert its spiritual hunger and needs. 



140 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

and find peace and strength in a purer faith and a 
more fruitful reHgious life. Protestantism in 
these countries may be the vital germ that holds 
in its bosom vast harvests of the future. 



AMERICA AND EUROPE 

We Americans are much given to contrasting 
America and Europe, to the advantage of our 
own country. Europe is to us the land of " effete 
monarchies," slow in progress, loaded with debt, 
and sunk in poverty, out of which enterprising 
people emigrate to free, rich, progressive Amer- 
ica. Some people, in connection with Europe, 
can think only of anarchy and vice. A favorite 
form of American, spread-eagle patriotism is to 
exalt America by depreciating Europe, and some 
even seem to think that the only way to love our 
own country is to hate other countries. Of 
course there is some truth in this general view. 
We do have immense resources in this country, 
and the future holds splendid possibilities for us. 
But this flattery of ourselves and depreciation 
of Europe grows out of ignorance and is pitiful 
provincialism. Even a cursory acquaintance 
with Europe teaches us truer views. Europe has 
a thousand years the start of us in civilization, 
and most that we have was inherited from it. 



SOME GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 141 

We are yet young among the nations, and while 
we have done great things, these should not blind 
us to the achievements of others. In many re- 
spects Europe leads us. In art we are begin- 
ners in its galleries; in literature our works are 
crude buds compared with its full-blown blos- 
soms; in science it is far in advance; in govern- 
ment it has many lessons to teach us; even in 
industry and in invention, especially in the appli- 
cation of science to the arts, it is often ahead of 
us; it does better farming, and lives in better 
houses and more beautiful cities; and it has a 
richer and quieter and more contented life. It 
is no lack of loyalty to our own country to see 
and say these things, but only bigotry to be blind 
to them. The world is wide, and has room and 
need of various types of civilization, and progress 
can be best made in each country by seeing the 
points of excellence in other countries and profit- 
ing thereby. More and more all countries, even 
the West and the Far East, are coming to know 
and to learn from one another. Commerce and 
travel and letters are diffusing a general acquaint- 
ance among nations, and this tends to obliterate 
provincialism and to broaden and enrich the life 
of all peoples. The world is growing small and 
brotherhood is binding humanity into one con- 
scious family. We are thus learning to look, not 



142 A SUMMER ACROSS THE SEA 

only on our own things, but also on the things of 
others, and are moving towards that universal 
peace and good will among men which will be the 
Kingdom of God on earth. 



THE END 



BY THE SAME AUTHOR 

Scenes and Sayings in the Life of Christ. By James H. 
Snowden, D.D., LL.D., Editor of The Presbyterian Banner. 
New York: Fleming H. Revell Company. $1.50. 

Dr. Snowden is an exceedingly crisp and suggestive writer. 
His style is sententious and epigrammatic in the extreme. . . . 
Some of these papers are gems, reminding us of Matthew 
Henry at his best. They minister alike to clear conception and 
to spiritual development. We question whether there is anything 
in modern literature that surpasses in thought and style and 
spirit the essay on " Martha and Mary " ; or on " Pharisees 
Caught in Their Own Net," although the purpose in mind led 
to an almost complete omission of the rich theological teach- 
ing of the passage cited (Matthew 22:34-46); or on " Geth- 
semane," in its psychological insight and sane but tender and 
reverent discussion of " this real battlefield of the cross." — 
The Presbyterian and Reform Review. 

What we like Dr. Snowden's Notes for is that he reads the 
life of Christ for himself, and reads it carefully enough to find 
a continual surprise in it. He moves, and we move with him, 
through a land that is always Spring. The freshness, the sur- 
prises, are in the life itself, not in Dr. Snowden's way of 
describing it. He is no American showman to Christ. — The 
Expository Times, Edinburgh. 

Many of the titles are peculiarly happy ; as for example, " A 
Holy Mystery Revealed," referring to the annunciation ; " How 
the Kingdom Started to Grow," being the call of the first 
disciples; "A Distinguished Night Visitor," who was Nico- 
demus; " The Tragedy of the Black Tower," dealing with the 
execution of John the Baptist. These expositions are informed 
by careful and conservative scholarship, are pervaded with a 
fine devotional flavor, and are illuminated at many points with 
original and suggestive interpretations. Dr. Snowden's style 
is clear and direct, and there is not an obscure passage in the 
volume. — The Interior. 

Suggestiveness is the crowning characteristic of Dr. Snow- 
den's work. For purely homiletic uses it is far and away 
beyond any advertised " Helps " on the market. It sparkles 
with terse, epigrammatic speech ; and is quotable to a degree 
quite unusual. — Dr. Herrick Johnson. 



H 66 89 







^°-n*.^ V 




•>6' 















<^^'M^y^ ..^<-^^-\ /*'}^y- / 









.0 i 


























o 4,0 "TV »" ^ 



^ 
<> 



^^o^ 












>; j?-^^^ 









. ^^. 









o» • *^ 



0*^ "^ 



INDERYINC. lai \ ^^f^* J" ^q, '^T^* , 

^Hl- N.MANCHESTER. *!aWA*' *^ ^ * fSi^^** ^^a t*^ 

^^ INDIANA 46962 J ^^^^^t ^"^^ "^^H^' ^V 



il 



